TOPIC:

Well she's gonna hit 20k miles this spring, what kinda services should I be thinking about doing on her/it? These are original miles, three years ago I bought it at 11k.

I've got new tires.

I had to take a link outta the chain because I couldn't afford a whole new setup at the time, its got a 630 on it. Part dealer says they can't get that size anymore. Thus even though the sprockets are brand new I've gotta replace the whole setup... didn't make sense to me.

All lights work but the hazard switch doesn't. And the signal switch doesn't return on its own anymore.

Fork seals are shot. At least one anyways.

Steering bearing must have a notch because slightly off center it locks into place before letting my continue turning, only noticeable when im parked (holding it up) and fiddling around.

Front Brake pads have an eighth of an inch left rear has a bit more, I think the front discs need replacement as they're beginning to rust a little.

Fuel tank has a large dent from my first day (didn't have it tied properly and it fell on the trailer after buying it). No idea how to get one made around here. Northwestern New Mexico area.

Looks like the inside has a bit of rust or something. Petcock works but the reserve doesn't if that makes sense lol

Hmmm

Both pipes have been cut off under the front pegs, centerstand area, but are still attached, caused a bit of trouble first year, now it just makes them ugly. Wouldn't mind going to a 4into1 but I know zilch about that area.

Think that covers a bit...

Last thing the carbs are very clean and an absolute pain to get to.

I've only got an old hard to see picture right now but if y'all want some I can get some new pictures up, any particular views/angles anybody would like?

You should do a Valve clearance check. Doing the check is fairly straight forward. Changing shims is more involved but should be doable.

Cut exhaust. Are the pipes connected?

Brake rotor rust shouldn't be a problem --- you could sand the disks to clean them up.
There should be a minimum thickness embossed onto the disks somewhere.
The dealer may have brake pads if yours are getting near the minimum.

Steering stem bearings. You could install a tapered roller bearing kit from Z1Enterprises.com. It's a bit of work, though. If the notchiness isn't apparent while riding, then it may not be a problem.

Fuel tank. Depending upon the type of dent, there are methods for popping them out. Alternatively, you could keep an eye out on eebbaayy for a replacement tank. Probably the closest matches will be the 80-83 750H models & 81-83 KZ650-CSRs. The petcock bung hole on a non-stock tank may be located differently, either more forward or rearward.

Fuel valve. The stock petcock is vacuum actuated.
ON & RES --- fuel should flow only when the engine is running.
ON = the normal everyday riding position.
RES = reserve. Uses the remaining 0.5 gals or so of fuel remaining in the tank.
PRI = prime. allows fuel to flow -->> engine off or engine running.

Airbox ducts. If the ducts are hard, the carburetors will be difficult to remove. New are available at Z1Enterprises.com.

That's what those are called haha, it literally took me almost an hour to get them all off when I checked it last summer, on the carbs I mean.

On the brake rotors should it be a fine sandpaper or would a fine steel wool work? Im not against doing manual sanding as long as I notice progress lol

Ill get the pictures up today so you can see what I mean on the pipes...but they basically look like some poor slip ons

I asked about the exhaust because if they are flowing too much air, the bike might be running lean. USA models were jetted lean from the factory, so the bike could be too lean, and therefore you should keep an eye on the spark plug color.

Steel wool may work on the rotors. If not, a fine sandpaper I guess.

Soft/new airbox ducts make all the difference & are well worth the money.
And new ones should last for years.

A genuine Kawasaki factory service manual (FSM) will be the best tool you ever put in your box. It clearly describes all the maintenance procedures and how often each shouldbe performed.
Plus what Martin said.

Here's the first handful

I have the bible everybody here recommended, its helped quite a bit.

I've also got a few wires near the battery I dont know where they go, tryimg to follow the diagrams just gives me a headache lol

I have an 1980 KZ750 Ltd. H1, and it sat for like 30 years, a member here ( McDroid) I think that is name , recommended that I clean clean all of the electrical contacts on my bike, he has an article here somewhere on how to do it, and I thank him and the all the other members that have helped me restore all my bikes , perhaps he will read this article and chime in.

That would be great.

Anybody know a good set of sprockets to boost acceleration? I don't need to go very fast around here but better acceleration would be great