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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 03 Oct 2014 01:41 #649499

  • LarryC
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doped304 wrote: , I removed the schrader valve from my compression tester and introduced 120 p.s.i to the cylinders ,With the cams removed, and heard a very audible leak from each and every cylinder. Mostly from the exhaust valves but an intake or two just to switch things up. .


That leads to a couple of logical questions. The click sound was caused by something moving and coming into contact with something else.... What's the source of the problem there?

a] stuck vales....binding in the guide for some reason
b] slightly bent valves....how did they get that way?

What I have seen guys do numerous times is incorrectly install the cams and turn the engine over. That leads to bent valves...that leads to the leakage...

In the past, they used stones to cut the seats at PP. Stones will cut a nice straight seat. The likeliness of 8 valves having non concentric seats are pretty slim to say the least....

Are there other things that could cause a problem? Yes there are. One being that the valve job needs a top cut because the 45 cut is now larger than the valve...

Pull the valves out, put them in a drill an spin them... If they're bent, you'll see it in a heartbeat.

If none are bent,, clean the valves and seats free of oil. Take a black magic marker and mark the valve face about 5 or 6 spots equally spaced on the 45. Put the valve down in the guide and spin it with a lapping stick. Pull it back out and inspect the marker and the seat. You'll see where the contact points are.

If you're running the PSP3x cams, you have far less room for incorrect cam timing that with the stock cams. They have a ton of duration, especially overlap duration. You'll bend valves real quick if the timing is off...

Am I defending Joe here? Yep... because I'm in the same business and I know what happens. I did not read anything about a phone call or email to Joe informing him of the situation and discussing it with him. THAT is truly the first thing that should have been done....
Larry C.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 04 Oct 2014 19:29 #649710

  • autotech2@tx.rr.com
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LarryC wrote:

doped304 wrote: , I removed the schrader valve from my compression tester and introduced 120 p.s.i to the cylinders ,With the cams removed, and heard a very audible leak from each and every cylinder. Mostly from the exhaust valves but an intake or two just to switch things up. .


That leads to a couple of logical questions. The click sound was caused by something moving and coming into contact with something else.... What's the source of the problem there?

a] stuck vales....binding in the guide for some reason
b] slightly bent valves....how did they get that way?

What I have seen guys do numerous times is incorrectly install the cams and turn the engine over. That leads to bent valves...that leads to the leakage...

In the past, they used stones to cut the seats at PP. Stones will cut a nice straight seat. The likeliness of 8 valves having non concentric seats are pretty slim to say the least....

Are there other things that could cause a problem? Yes there are. One being that the valve job needs a top cut because the 45 cut is now larger than the valve...

Pull the valves out, put them in a drill an spin them... If they're bent, you'll see it in a heartbeat.

If none are bent,, clean the valves and seats free of oil. Take a black magic marker and mark the valve face about 5 or 6 spots equally spaced on the 45. Put the valve down in the guide and spin it with a lapping stick. Pull it back out and inspect the marker and the seat. You'll see where the contact points are.

If you're running the PSP3x cams, you have far less room for incorrect cam timing that with the stock cams. They have a ton of duration, especially overlap duration. You'll bend valves real quick if the timing is off...

Am I defending Joe here? Yep... because I'm in the same business and I know what happens. I did not read anything about a phone call or email to Joe informing him of the situation and discussing it with him. THAT is truly the first thing that should have been done....


Hey Larry,

Not quite sure where you got "click" from. All I read was "very audible leak". But I know where you're coming from if a noise was heard while cranking.

You're the expert, and by all means doped304 should perform the procedure you recommended to determine the cause of the problem.

At first hearing no compression and 100% leakdown, I thought the same thing -- either inaccurate testing, or bent valves due to incorrect cam installation or timing. But the fact the leaks were heard with the cams removed, eliminated a testing problem.

In my years in automotive I've seen a lot of bent valves, ether by incorrect chain install, or a belt jumping time. In all instances, I can remember, something always held true. There were visible marks (nicks) on every valve (intake or exhaust) and piston, and the damage held true across the board. Meaning there was a nick on every intake (and/or exhaust valve), and every piston. Doesn't have to be a big gouge, sometimes just a little nick. And the damage I've seen has always been universal. Every valve made piston contact, and leakage was pretty much the same at each cylinder.

So the things that caught my attention were no visible contact marks on any valves in the pictures (doped304, carefully examine the top of the pistons also), and the fact that cyl. #1 valves held fluid consistently, others not at all, and another marginally.

My engine had about a 25% leak past two intake valves.

Got a good story on a V6 engine, The alternator belt broke, drive belt came off, battery light came on and customer kept driving, The drive belt got caught behind the crank pulley, bore a hole though the plastic timing belt cover, derailed the T-belt, jumped time, bent all the valves. Needed an engine after that.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 10 Oct 2014 14:51 #650282

  • KawC2
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Got the valves removed, chucked them in a drill all were fine. I'm still going to check a bit better. I took some pix of the intake and exhaust valves to try and show the grind.


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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 11 Oct 2014 07:33 #650330

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If none are bent,, clean the valves and seats free of oil. Take a black magic marker and mark the valve face about 5 or 6 spots equally spaced on the 45. Put the valve down in the guide and spin it with a lapping stick. Pull it back out and inspect the marker and the seat. You'll see where the contact points are.


Do as LarryC suggested and show us pics of the seats.

My manual shows applying machinist dye to the valve seat, then inserting the valve and tapping it against the seat (not spinning). Then look for an even pattern all the way around the valve.

Think it accomplishes the same thing. Just dye on the valve, read the seat, or dye on the seat, read the valve.

To check the valve stem 100% for being straight, you need a V-block and a dial indicator.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 11 Oct 2014 10:52 #650358

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autotech2@tx.rr.com wrote:

If none are bent,, clean the valves and seats free of oil. Take a black magic marker and mark the valve face about 5 or 6 spots equally spaced on the 45. Put the valve down in the guide and spin it with a lapping stick. Pull it back out and inspect the marker and the seat. You'll see where the contact points are.


Do as LarryC suggested and show us pics of the seats.

My manual shows applying machinist dye to the valve seat, then inserting the valve and tapping it against the seat (not spinning). Then look for an even pattern all the way around the valve.

Think it accomplishes the same thing. Just dye on the valve, read the seat, or dye on the seat, read the valve.

To check the valve stem 100% for being straight, you need a V-block and a dial indicator.


Yes...next will be the V block and dial indicator.

Here's some pics of the seats as Larry suggested.

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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 11 Oct 2014 14:32 #650378

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I did the runout with the V blocks and every valve was good to go.

I was doing the black marker on the valve and seat and noticed this. In the first set of pics is from #4 to #1. The 2econd set of pics is from #1 to #4.

Can you tell me if anything is wrong with the grind of the seats? If you will notice that on #4 intake Valve the grind is riding very high almost to the top of the valve face. This pics are in the post before this one.


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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 11 Oct 2014 15:24 #650384

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Can't really tell which are the number #4 valves. As far as I can see the contact is pretty uniform on the valves. They should be slightly off of the margin, and equal width.

Try marking the seat all the way around with the sharpie, Then spin the valve in the seat and remove. The ink should get worn off all the way around the seat by the valve. If there are spots untouched, and the valve is straight, the seat needs to be re-cut.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 11 Oct 2014 15:47 #650390

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autotech2@tx.rr.com wrote: Can't really tell which are the number #4 valves. As far as I can see the contact is pretty uniform on the valves. They should be slightly off of the margin, and equal width.

Try marking the seat all the way around with the sharpie, Then spin the valve in the seat and remove. The ink should get worn off all the way around the seat by the valve. If there are spots untouched, and the valve is straight, the seat needs to be re-cut.


In the first and last pic, can you see that the seat is almost on the surface of the bottom of the head? Notice the spacing at the top of the #4 seat is non existing where the others have a space before the bottom of the head surface? Can you see that the seat doesn't look like the others. notice how the seat is almost ground straigh up and down?
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 11 Oct 2014 16:33 #650394

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Looks like some of the seats have been cut quite a bit off centre .
Put some marker on the seats and rotate the valves on them.
I bet the marker only gets rubbed in one spot.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 11 Oct 2014 17:20 #650401

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zed1015 wrote: Looks like some of the seats have been cut quite a bit off centre .
Put some marker on the seats and rotate the valves on them.
I bet the marker only gets rubbed in one spot.


Thanks for noticing. I've done the black marker and your right, only a few spots rub off. The cut on #4 intake is almost up and down. You can see the lapping mark in the combustion chamber is almost off the cut. The #4 intake valve lapping mark is so close to the edge of the valve it's going to be on the side before I get it lapped in. Way to go PSP!!!!!!!!!! for doing such a good job taking my money and returning a slab of aluminum. The seat is cut so large I don't think I can do anything about it.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 11 Oct 2014 17:22 #650402

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That was the deal with mine. Seats not cut concentric with the valves.
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Rebuilding a KZ -- don't use Pit Stop Performance 11 Oct 2014 17:34 #650405

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autotech2@tx.rr.com wrote: IThat was the deal with mine. Seats not cut concentric with the valves.


PSP must of chucked a beveled grinding wheel in a drill and held it 90deg to the head.
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