TOPIC:

Buick? Toyota? Land Rover? Tough call....
An oil cooler is pretty much an oil cooler, just a zig-zaggy tube with fins on it. If you can successfully attach the correct size hoses to it, no reason it shouldn't work. The main thing is to make sure you flush the hell out of it before you use it!

Now that I looked again.... if that tube on the top is where the lines attach, then I don't think it will be ideal. That looks like a very large diameter compared to the 3/8 or so hose that is normally used for an oil cooler. Typically, the inlet and outlet will be on opposite sides, on the bottom. That's not to say you can't make it work, but I'd look for something more purpose specific.

Referring to your earlier questions - you don't add extra oil to the crankcase when the cooler is fitted.
The lines will depend on your tastes and on what you end up using for a cooler. You can simply use rubber cooler hose. The steel braided lines are AN lines. If you want to use those, you have to make sure your cooler has provisions to use AN fittings. A lot of coolers have the fittings built in making it really hard or impossible to use AN. I've seen people use hose clamps on AN lines, but that's pretty much a half-ass, leak prone way to do it. In fact, when I got my KZ1000A, that's exactly what it had, and they leaked. I ended up running regular old hoses, over the top of the motor, and it works well.

You're also going to need these:




www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...00+Z1&item=ZSM09-003

Ha it was already installed and worked (i think it was working). I just want to use braided metal and not the black line I currently have. Not digging the look. Also I have read that there are oil coolers that only start working (stop valve) when the oil/engine temp gets to the point that it needs cooling.

Ok how do you get the oil seals off of the cover under the engine sprocket? Is there are trick?

Ha it was already installed and worked (i think it was working). I just want to use braided metal and not the black line I currently have. Not digging the look. Also I have read that there are oil coolers that only start working (stop valve) when the oil/engine temp gets to the point that it needs cooling

Oh, right on! Yeah if you want the braided lines, you're going to want to get AN lines and fittings. All the speed shops carry that stuff, Summit, Jegs, etc., you can make your own if you feel adventurous, otherwise if you poke around a little bit, it should be easy to find someone to make them for you. I know there's a couple of cycle speed shops in Madison & I'd surely think they could make them or set you up with someone who does.
What you're referring to is called a thermostat. Yup, works just like a thermostat in a car. Opens up at a certain temp. They typically install inline on the hoses. Same deal- you should be able to find them via an auto-based speed shop, or search the web.

Ok how do you get the oil seals off of the cover under the engine sprocket? Is there are trick?

Trans door seals usually come out pretty easy. I use an appropriately sized socket and a soft hammer (as not to ding up my socket!) and have never had much of a problem. If they're really stubborn, you can take a propane torch and heat up the aluminum around the seal and they should come out really easy! As a matter of fact, I have always had more of a problem installing them But I just do the same thing. Heat up the area around where the seal goes, and grease up the seal, and they should practically slide right in without much persuasion.

DobbinsCMA wrote: Ok how do you get the oil seals off of the cover under the engine sprocket? Is there are trick?

Could try threading a small metal screw into the seal, then grasp the screw and pull the seal from its position in the cover.

Good Fortune!

Frame is preped!

Wow! It sure is.
I've subscribed to this thread. Really looking forward to seeing how the bike turns out. You going to powdercoat the frame now?

ya should done Monday. Got my new cases in the mail and it seems one of the guides must be rusted or something. It just wont crack. I checked and triple checked to see if there were any bolts still on it. There arent. Its doesnt want to separate on the back left side if your sitting on the bike.

Hmm.
These cases are bare, right? Were there ANY bolts holding them together? Locating dowels are easy to F up. Your average Joe will take a pair of pliers, or vice grips and twist and pull until they come out. As soon as you do something like that, they get chewed up, and get burs in them. If somebody put them back together with the dowels like that, it could be really hard to pull them apart. Do you have a dead blow hammer that you could use to try to tap the cases apart?

Corrosion between aluminum (cases) and steel (dowels) can create a very strong bond too. If you know where the dowel is, you might try heating the area around it up, which will expand the aluminum a lot more than
the steel dowel, and make it easier to pull them apart.