TOPIC:

84? You mean 34 right? Good luck, you have a long road of de gunking ahead. Get that tank stripped and treated ASAP. Not many of these survived.

Hey man just stopping by to say it's looking great so far! Keep it up!

kzr750r1 wrote: 84? You mean 34 right? Good luck, you have a long road of de gunking ahead. Get that tank stripped and treated ASAP. Not many of these survived.

Yeah it was a typo,34's.I like long roads of degunking.Point taken with the tank,living on the wet coast can do bad (rusty)things.Going to check yours out GA

Other projects,mainly getting my wife's 96 Nissan pickup back on the road,have put the GPz on the back burner.Did order some SS allen's for the carb's from my new favorite SS screw guy ,good prices and very reasonable shipping within Canada

Thanks for the lead on the SS fasteners in Canada! I'll definitely be picking some of those up.

You're welcome,got what was to be my carb screws.Ordered 4mm but needed 5 At his prices it was no big deal.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationSorry to say this is still waiting to really get started and I missed the weather window for getting the frame painted this year Have run into a bit of a problem with the 4>1,try as I might the megaphone will not release from the header.It's chrome and rusty and will just look out of place on a black and red GPz IMHO.So in looking at getting a new one the alternatives seem to be a black Mac canister system like this or a chrome V&H.As stated I don't want a chrome pipe.What to do :S

Presumably, long term soaking of the joint with Kroil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, 50-50 atf/acetone mixture, or other penetrant has already been tried toward loosening the stuck connection. Such as wrapping a rag around the joint and keeping it constantly soaked for a few days or a week.

Depending on extent of rust, refinishing in black might give very acceptable results.

If stuck position fits the bike, could refinish and use the system without needing to separate the headers from the muffler.

Muriatic acid does a good fast job toward eliminating rust. And there are other good and less dangerous rust removal products also available. Possibly sand blast the hard-to-reach areas at the collection juncture.

If separation is needed to reorient the connection, a muffler shop might be able to help, perhaps by torching the connection to cherry red immediately before attempting to pull it apart -- let them do this for safety reasons because they know how without frying human parts.

Good Fortune!

It's in a position to fit on the bike but it would be easier to work on if I could get it apart..I have used Moovit,PB Blaster and 50/50 ATF and alcohol with and without heat from the propane torch to no effect.Have oxilic acid from work for the rust so that's covered.Maybe soak the joint with a solution of that?Was going to try to remove the chrome but will sand blasting it do a good enough job?.Would rather save this pipe anyway.

I got surprisingly good results going from chrome to black on header pipes that were discolored and lightly rusted at the almost inaccessible area where the pipes join at the collector. As I recall, the pipes were built together as a single header assembly (not 4 separate pipes).

Considered sand blasting, but decided against it.

Used a cheap disposable paint brush to basically douse the entire assembly with full strength muriatic acid, which boiled away most of the rust in the collector area , and did a decent job of "priming" the smooth areas. Allowed the acid to work for about 10 minutes.

Rinsed the assembly with a water hose, and allowed it to dry.

Minimal wet sanding with ultra fine paper was also done, but seemed mostly ineffective on the discolored chrome plating.

When fully dry, applied rattle can flat black high temp paint from Auto-Zone, which held on very well, looked good and smooth, didn't flake or chip off, survived heavy duty cleaners such as gunk, etc., and many pressure washes. Would have been easy to touch up, but wasn't necessary.

Am uncertain how durability of another color other than flat black would compare.

A gallon of muriatic acid is inexpensive and available at any swimming pool supply store, and probably for even less at Lowes and Home Depot.

It's a cheap (maybe $15 for acid, brush, paint and paper) and easy exercise with pleasing results in less than an hour (except for the drying time before painting), not counting removal from the bike and reassembly onto the bike.

I kept the chrome muffler, because it was still in excellent condition. But believe the same process would apply.

Others have reported somewhat less longevity with VHT rattle can spray-on, but I was pleasantly surprised with the results.

Check out the LTD in my signature, which has the subject header assembly.

Good Fortune!

You might try soaking it in evaporust or white vinegar/salt. They both do a really good job of dissolving rust.

Patton wrote: I got surprisingly good results going from chrome to black on header pipes that were discolored and lightly rusted at the almost inaccessible area where the pipes join at the collector. As I recall, the pipes were built together as a single header assembly (not 4 separate pipes).

Considered sand blasting, but decided against it.

Used a cheap disposable paint brush to basically douse the entire assembly with full strength muriatic acid, which boiled away most of the rust in the collector area , and did a decent job of "priming" the smooth areas. Allowed the acid to work for about 10 minutes.

Rinsed the assembly with a water hose, and allowed it to dry.

Minimal wet sanding with ultra fine paper was also done, but seemed mostly ineffective on the discolored chrome plating.

When fully dry, applied rattle can flat black high temp paint from Auto-Zone, which held on very well, looked good and smooth, didn't flake or chip off, survived heavy duty cleaners such as gunk, etc., and many pressure washes. Would have been easy to touch up, but wasn't necessary.

Am uncertain how durability of another color other than flat black would compare.

A gallon of muriatic acid is inexpensive and available at any swimming pool supply store, and probably for even less at Lowes and Home Depot.

It's a cheap (maybe $15 for acid, brush, paint and paper) and easy exercise with pleasing results in less than an hour (except for the drying time before painting), not counting removal from the bike and reassembly onto the bike.

I kept the chrome muffler, because it was still in excellent condition. But believe the same process would apply.

Others have reported somewhat less longevity with VHT rattle can spray-on, but I was pleasantly surprised with the results.

Check out the LTD in my signature, which has the subject header assembly.

Good Fortune!

I'm out on Canada's far west coast and we don't have Auto Zones here(checked to be sure ).Used VHT on the Supertrapp for my GS750 and am not impressed as it's rusting again.This after sand blasting it at the local U Blast place before painting.Will give the penetrating oil soaked rag a try and if that doesn't work RHG's Evaporust idea will be tried to.