TOPIC:

zed1015 wrote: Are you going to shape the brake side bracket around the frame mounting holes to match the gear lever side.

I was hoping you wouldn't ask that question

I thought about it, but since nobody will be able to look at both sides at the same time I decided to keep the brake lever side shape like this, as that makes for less shaping. I have tried it on the bike before shipping the frame to powder coating and I think it doesn't look all that shabby this way

After a long wait for getting my frame back from sand blasting and powder coating, I finally picked it up this week The thing looks sweet..





I also got my tank, seat and fenders back from the paint shop and I like the result:







I am still waiting for my engine to come back from the workshop, as I've had someone help me out with the cylinder boring, valve replacement etc. According to the shop it is about two weeks away. No worries as I have a lot I can fiddle around with on the engineless frame:

- installing steering and swing arm bearings
- laying out the electronics with new harness
- mounting new rear sets and bleeding front and rear brakes

Installing new steering bearing races turned out to be a small hassle. I figured i could just lay them in place and knock them in by using a mallet. Turns out that the lower race was recessed into the steering tube. I had to make my own DIY-tool for this job:

GO TOMMY GO!

I had an issue with moisture that had been trapped inside the frame and created some rusted spots underneath the lower frame. I've had these spots sorted out and the frame is good In order to attempt to prevent further rust I decided to rust wash the inside of the frame. I bought some cans of rust rinse (directly translated from Norwegian) and drilled a whole in each side of the frame so that I could pour this stuff into the frame and have it flow into the lower tubings. Don't have a picture of this I let the rinse sit in there for 45 minutes and poured it out. A lot of brown sludge coming out. I did a second rust rinse just to be sure, same procedure.

After letting the frame dry out for a couple of days I got me some rust prevention liquid. This is a type of waxy substance that is penetrating and leaves a waxy residue when it dries. I poured this into the same holes that I used for the rinse and slushed it all around in the frame and let it sit and dry. I believe that this treatment will help some with preventing further rust on the inside of the frame, letting my girl have many years left for the road 8)

Right now I am waiting to have my engine back from the shop, as the guy working on it had been injured and could not work for a while. Therefore it has been taking a while. I have now been told that I should get the engine back in about three weeks time. While waiting for the engine, I've started to put everything else back together so that I can slide the engine in when I get it

I've successfully installed new steering races and bearing, along with new needle bearings and assembled the swing arm:



Another shot:


Worked out the linkage for my rear brake. I have made the rear set by modifying the stock brackets, cutting of the parts which are not needed. Put on some Tarozzi foldable pegs. I think the rear set came out ok:



Mounted my newly serviced fork. Changed the stanchions and put in new progressive springs:



I will now rebuild and paint my brake calipers and start hooking up the electrics on the bike while waiting for my engine to get back from the shop.

nice work..........those rear set seem a little to far back......all the weight will be on ur arms.
hope u young

spdygon wrote: nice work..........those rear set seem a little to far back......all the weight will be on ur arms.
hope u young

I cannot say I disagree with you on that If I had the choice I would have mounted them a good couple of inches forward, unfortunately modifying the stock brackets left this as the only place to mount these suckers. My body, fortunately, is still young and will have to pay the bill for this

Those are way back there. I'm thinking your young back might be okay, but your twig and berries will be making the payments after a long ride.

Alan

I got some work done last night, servicing my brake calipers. When you make something go faster, it might also be a good idea to make sure you can stop well. I am taking a part all calipers and rebuilding them, also with new pistons. Dunno really if the new pistons were really necessary, but when ordering the rebuild kit, it was easy to add them to the basket:



One of the pistons top was worn and a part was chipped away. Probably not a problem, but I will be replacing them:



I will also be painting the calipers, either black like original or silver. Since the bike is all black, I thought silver might be good and match also some of the silver parts that will be on the engine.

Next thjing I did last night was trying to find a way to mount the rear brake fluid reservoir. I kind of cocked up not making a bracket before powedercoating the frame. I was looking through some brackets I had lying around and found a couple of caliper spacers from my mountain bike that I am not using. They fit well for mounting the reservoir, without the need to drill the frame



Doesn't come out too shabby I think?

While I was at it, I needed a way to mount my rear blinkers. I also cocked up not making any tabs on the frame before powdercoating and needed a place to mount them. On the shock mounts is a good position, and I needed a bracket. I came across a rear derailleur hanger, also from my mountain bike. With a slight mod. it will fit like a glove:



So this is how the reservoir and blinkers will be mounted. Any other bright ideas on how to do this?

Mounted my head lamp and blinkers, and put on a tarozzi fork brace.

looks good keep the pics flowing

Look mommy, my calipers are solid gold



I cleaned and started painting my calipers yesterday. I was a bit hesitant to go for anything else than the stock black, but since my entire bike is black and I am going with the stock wheels (silver/gold combo), I think it will work out good.

I can't understand why you chose such a rare motorcycle to modify this way. You're not doing anything that makes the bike better. It's just different and it''s value and appeal have been lost forever.

I admire what you're doing. You just picked the wrong bike to start with

Things being what they are, you might at least consider the following advice about the engine. At least you can save face if it runs strong. If it's just a warmed over stocker with pistons and carbs it will only add insult to the already obvious injury

The RS36 carburetors will work on your engine but they are not optimal for it because you stopped short. You really need to take the motor to a higher level to take full advantage of them. First thing to go should be the piddly stock cams. At least find some late GPz11 cams for it.

Put GPz 38mm intake valves in it. Open the throats up to 34.2mm and open up the bowls to at least 34mm. Check the valve guides to make sure none of them are sinking on you.

That work won't turn it into a fire breather but it will at least wake it up a bit....