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if .006" is the smallest feeler you have, then yes, get a set, and remeasure. Get some feelers with metric/standard on both as it will make calculating a new shim way easier if you keep it metric. Download the service manual Patton provided as well and follow the steps. .006" is .152mm which is in spec, but nearing the upper limit. intake and exhaust should be .08-.18mm; ideally falling somewhere in the middle.

Thank you for your reply's, I ordered a new feeler guage last night should be here in a few days. I'll post my new results once I get it. I see a lot of people get shims from z1enterprise is that the best place to go for shims once I figure out what I need?

Yes Z1 is always very helpful and reasonable prices, however, if you don't want to wait for shims local dealers will usually have them in stock. If you find an old-school shop they may let you exchange the ones you have for free.

Hmmm good tip! I'll look I to exchanging

Finally got my new feeler gauges I ordered. I'll take my measurements tonight and post the results.

Okay I got my measurements, so now the next step is pull the cams and find the measurements of the shims that are in it?
I know I need to keep the cam caps in order and to ensure the chain doesn't fall in the engine and make sure I keep the timing marks and number of chain links correct during reassembly. Hopefully I'll only need to do it once haha

Alright I think I've got it figured out on what I'll need.

The numbers outside th circles are the shims that were in it. Numbers in the top half of the circle are the numbers from the clearance chart. Let me know if you think this all checks out. On the #1 cyl sitting at .08 I feel I should just bring them down .05. Do you guys agree with that?
Thanks in advance on the input

Those look pretty good. However i would change #4 exhaust to 2.40. you might want to go one size down on 2 and three to compensate for not being able to get a feeler in there. Could you not read the numbers on #3exhaust shim? you can use a micrometer to measure shims. In fact if you are going to swap shims around or use old ones I would check the thickness before installing as they are sometimes not correct to the markings. you can get cheap effective micrometer at harbor freight.

Thank you for the reply, I borrowed a micrometer from a friend and the #3 exhaust shim was a 2.50. I only planned on reusing one of the old shims so I'll be sure to mic them to make sure they are still in spec. I'll actually mic all the shims to make sure they are what they say they are. What would you change the #4 exhaust to? Do you think the #4 intake is okay to leave as it is?

I'm getting my shims from jetsrus.com. 1/2 the price of anywhere else so I pick up other sizes for future use.
Steve

#4 exhaust i would go 240. You could leave the #4 intake but it is getting close to the min spec. I would probably go to a 240 there too sInce your other clearances are going to be .12-.15 for the other valves, and things will likely tighten up as you put the miles on.

Got my shims ordered! Thank you for all the help #DoctoRot. Figured while I'm waiting for shims I'll get crack in' on the seat. I'll post pictures as I go and hopefully it'll turn out how I think. Got the painters tap down next will be aluminum tape and some wax. And of course plastic drape the bike where I don't want resin and fiberglass on. I'm hoping it will give me a fitted seat pan that I can place upholstry foam on so I can start shaving the foam down to the shape I want. Any advice on where to buy blocks of foam for seats?
I'm thinking I'll do two seat pans one that will be bolted down to the frame with an access hole to the battery area and the second will be for the seat and I'll velcro them together for easy removal and installation. If anyone sees any conflicts with this idea or a better way to go about it please let me know.

Thank you for everyone that's still following this build its been a long project and is near "completion" lol just can't wait to get out to the smokey mountains of TN and NC on this thing.