TOPIC:

nicely done!

looking good !

leon

Thanks guys, It feels like I'm slowing down, but its just one step at a time now. I do have some updates though, I switched from mainly wiring while I wait on some harness wrap and a few connectors to getting the front brakes plumbed and the speed sensor mounted.
I'm using some old lines I collected, since I can't swing for three lines the proper length right now. My plan is to move the double banjo bolt from the caliper up to my splitter and run two lines from it down to each caliper block; here goes the splitter:
The GSXR lower clamp has two M6 threaded bosses underneath on either side of the stem.
I chucked a piece of hex in the lathe and turned this up with a little Mother's.


Then bent up a couple brackets to sandwich with the banjo bolts (since there will be no alumy welding).


After installing it and bleeding, I pulled hard on the lever and no leakage occurred. Should look much nicer when I get the new lines ran, but this will work till then.



The speed sensor came with two brackets, one for an M8 and one for an M10 bolt. As it turned out I had just one studded bolt ( I think that's what its called ) that is M8 on the long side and M6 on the other. I threaded the M6 end into the lower fender ear on the left fork because the hole in the fender was already damaged.


The sensor is pointing at the center of the brake disc rivets where the neodymium magnets fit almost perfectly. I could space only 5 of the 6 in this way.


The literature doesn't describe the air gap or if all 6 magnets must be used, I'm relying on the manual calibration procedure to correct for this. Once I figure out if it will work here I'll trim off the excess, but for now it should be good to catch my ankle on when walking by lol


I also serviced my horn switch as it wasn't making continuity internally. I didn't look very hard to see if there was anything on this procedure; nothing in the manual and most posts on the net were concerning continuity thru the bars. The construction of the switch implies that it was meant to be serviced though.
I only took one picture of this ( I know, I know, I'm slippin'! ), but it was actually very easy. Once removed from the housing, I de-soldered it to make it easier to handle. The "depressor" portion comes off once an e-clip is removed and the pin drops out. Then the rivet must be driven out, carefully ( and don't lose the silicon insulator). The contactor will fall out and it can thus be disassembled by removing the e-clip that holds the pin and spring:


With it completely disassembled, all the surfaces can have the corrosion scrubbed off; I also had to straighten out the copper contactor with a pair of pliers. Reassembly is just the reverse (obviously ); I used a piece of 1/4" steel plate to press the rivet head against while I tapped on the small end with a drift and light hammer. Tested with the multimeter, and it goes beep! Mission success! Now to repaint the horn and install.
Cheers

Internal server error again.... Are my pictures too big?

most probably too big.
i use resize.it/advanced-online-photo-tools.html

choose file
make the image exactly this height in pixels [817]
make the image exactly this width in pixels [1089]
hit the [okay]button.

when the picture pops up just right click(somewhere outside of the crop box) and save it to your files.and it will be re-sized .
they will then be this size.



kinda a pain in the bootay but it works .

leon

p.s. you can actually go back and edit your previous post and add the re-sized pictures into it if you want.


p.s.s. click my picture and see that they still get big and hold there detail.

Oh, here's a picture of my Z1-R as an example. Way to rub it in Leon. Why don't you just throw in all X3 pictures

Alan

Yeah anyway! Damn, that is one sexy bike you have Leon. I love Z1-r's and MkII's, I have a pic of one as my desktop for the past few months, drool...
Me haz idea now... If it is in fact picture size I might be able to post that pic since I did find it on the forum anyway.

Definitely think its size related issue I'll give the resize program a shot and see what happens. In the future I think I'll set my camera to take smaller images and that should solve it.

-

Yay!! it works, Thanks for sharing that with me Leon, gonna put that one in the bookmarks lol

glad you found it useful.

it seems if you set your camera to 8 megapixels that they are a good size for posting to the internet.

leon

It’s been a month and I'm finally getting to the end of the wiring process and I think I have come up with a semi-neat design to fit under the seat. I made a platform to mount as much of the stuff to as I could above the main tray. The idea is that I placed the components essential to the bike running and require the least amount of maintenance on the lower side and the relays and fuse holder and 'gizmo' on the top. Ah, the gizmo...

I wanted to incorporate regular automotive relays into the stock wiring harness to take the load off the switches and bypass 30 years of corrosion and to have the circuits fused through modern ATO fuses. I’m also running a halogen bulb from my Datsun for now and might upgrade to a HID bulb like I replaced the halogens with, but it is so much brighter than the old bulb! I used the voltage signal from the headlight switch and ignition kill switch to control the relays and allowed battery voltage to be sent directly to the head and tail lights through their own fuses. The coil is also fused, although I’m not sure what the amperage rating should be. Ohm’s Law states V=I/R, so with the generic coil at 0.6ohms and a ~12 volt system it will be ~7.2Amps and with two coils drawing at only milliseconds apart it will be higher, plus whatever the coil drivers draw, etc… It may be a trial and error type of thing. Or it’s simply not necessary and I can wire it directly Only the white power wire is be a direct, fused, connection to the ignition switch, as it is stock, which I tied the speedometer into for its memory function. In fact all of the connections to the speedo (constant 12V, ground, and switched 12V) were available at the headlight area of the harness via bullet connections. Yes, a handmade harness would have made this much simpler and cleaner and one day it would be nice to fab a complete harness from scratch, but I just couldn’t bring myself to do it this time around; I got two other projects requiring specially loomed engine harnesses and I don’t want to get burned out on it too soon. But at least for now I have a bike that has lights and even turns over, boy it sounds nice to hear that again I’ll get some pics posted of the electrical tray and detail the ignition system I’m working on to explain what the “gizmo” is
Happy wrenching!