TOPIC:

Are you wanting to weld the coupler to the frame or use them to join shifter and brake linkages?

If you want them to mount the brackets to the frame, go to Bungking.com. They sell machined threaded bungs. They're kinda overpriced but not that bad if you don't have access to a lathe.

Later, Doug

Hey Doug- The ones I'm looking for are going to be used to weld to the frame to hold my new foot rests up.

I'm going to swing by another shop in town tomorrow and see if I can pick anything up. The threads might actually be standard (fingers crossed).

If I can't get any in town, I'll for sure give the Bungking,com site a shot. Thanks for the tip!

Devin

Devin,

I was just thinking. I have some metric bungs left over from my project. Let me know the thread size you're looking for and I'll see what I have. If you need what I have, you can have them for shipping.

Later, Doug

Doug,

I really appreciate that! I'll let you know what I'm able to find today. I'll get the threads checked at this last shop to double check and hopefully they have something in stock for me. How many bungs do you have left?

Thanks Doug.

Devin

Looking good in those pics, Devine! What kind of work are you doing to the engine, I don't recall from earlier in the thread if you said? I would like to see your passenger peg setup, I neglected to address that issue before painting and now I'm befuddled as to how I will attach a pair without stripping too much, I like the bung option.

Thanks, Zed! As for engine work- I did all that two years ago. When I picked the bike up, it needed valve work, and the rings were fairly cooked. So I did a full top end rebuild, and bored it to the Wiseco 720cc big bore kit. Stage 3 Dyna Jet carb kit, pod filters, and a 4-1 exhaust off a 2001 Kawi ZR-7s (uses the same head as our bikes). Those bikes are still air cooled too, So the exhaust slaps right in,

As for the pegs- when I get to that part, I'll for sure put pics up. I'm hoping to be able to just weld the bungs to the frame in the required spot and call it quits there. Hopefully I can do the same with the driver rearsets too...

Pics will follow all work

650mod wrote: Doug,

I really appreciate that! I'll let you know what I'm able to find today. I'll get the threads checked at this last shop to double check and hopefully they have something in stock for me. How many bungs do you have left?

Thanks Doug.

Devin

I checked and I have 4 "long" M8 bungs. They are 1.125" long, 0.75" in diameter, and are threaded for M8x1.25 bolts. I have two M10 bungs with the same outside dimensions. I had four short M8's but used them on my GPz.

Later, Doug

Doug- The bolts I have are M8's. I wasn't able to get anything in town, but I do have access to a lathe to work with... I'll talk to my friend tomorrow and see what he's thinking for making some up. I'll keep ya posted.

Devin

650mod wrote: Doug- The bolts I have are M8's. I wasn't able to get anything in town, but I do have access to a lathe to work with... I'll talk to my friend tomorrow and see what he's thinking for making some up. I'll keep ya posted.

Devin

Should take you about 15 mins to make four bungs. They're a great beginner project to learn how to use a lathe.

Later, Doug

We'll have to make 8 up, which won't take long. 4 for my front sets, 4 for the rear.

I've run it before, but this will be good practice

So I decided to scrap the metric coupler bolt idea and switch things over to standard. I picked up some nice counter sunk socket head stainless bolts to use for the foot rests. The only issue is... I can't get coupler bolts in a black oxide mild steel. Solution? I'm going to take some 5/8" solid bar, drill the center out, and tap it to take the bolt. Sometimes, it takes a little creativity to get the job done.

Hopefully I'll be in the shop next week to get the sprocket done. One step at a time...

Does anyone know how to lock the drive sprocket into the lathe when machining the outer sprocket? ie the sprocket that will be driving the chain? Due to the teeth on the sprocket, I'm just wondering how I can lock it in so I know it's true and won't wind out. This is the sprocket that we'll be machining the centre out of to slip over the outer diameter of the offset tube.

Thanks guys