TOPIC:

if you brace the top of the flatbar with the split tube and cope it into the rear tube it would eliminate the need for the gusset at the back bottom of the tubing.
then you could just grind/sand the back of the flatbar to the same radius as the tube while leaving the weld.

the front two tubes can tie into the split tube and flat bar and eliminate corner gussets because they create them themselves by the way they tie into the split tube/flat bar.if you need some more room up front you could use bent tubing to gain some room but still tie in right.

hth,
leon

I know all too well what you mean about the head scratching. I like the rear shock you are using, nice and short, but the reservoir seems to be a pain to work around, like so many others. I wanted to use a remote reservoir shock; it would have made the mounting SOOO much simpler. I especially like using the original battery box, I think you nailed that!!
Your mounting looks like it will be fine with the bracing you will add. You might be able to split a length of tubing to cap the cross tube at the back, that should greatly reduce any chance of it bending and keep a low profile. Tying into the area at the back of the tank will be good, that area is already very strong, as Leon pointed out. +1 for using geometry lol! This three-point mount looks very familiar.....
Oh, don't worry about using my idea, just ditch it and find something better! just kidding

Leon- I see what you're saying about structural strength with the split tubing now. I like it. I like the idea of being able to then radius the back of the flatbar. We were going to just trim it up and radius the corners a bit, but fully being able to radius the flatbar will be nice.

DoubleZed- the shock is nice to work with being so compact. It gave me a bit more freedom to work with, and I really like how I was able to keep my battery box in the same location. I think for this build, using the shock I am makes things easier- if I was using a shock like yours, I probably couldn't have gotten away with keeping the battery box in the stock location. If I'm tying into the seat cross tube, I'll have to under brace it as the top has all my seat rail mounting points (which should still work ok). Where have you seen this mount used before? Haha had to go with whatever worked the best for me

I probably would have gone with two tubes angled out to the stronger outer frame members like such. But what has already been discussed for adding strength is a good way to go .

Tusch- it's not too late for a little bit of grinding and making up new tubes. I like that idea too- never thought of that one before.

I'm digging the fab work

Thanks, Haf! Having an aircraft welder who used to have a customized z1 and a kz1000 helps out alot! We bounce ideas back and forth and come up with some pretty creative ideas. It's all slowly coming together! My goal is to have it fully done and on the road for April, when I don't have snow on the ground

I went looking for the build thread that featured the same mounting setup you are using, but for the life of me I just couldn't find it again. I found through a google search a few years ago, before I started my build. One thing is for sure though, there are a lot more monoshock/streetfighter type builds being showcased now than just two years ago. I had a hard time trying to gather the info for fork swaps, now people sell stems that pretty much make any set of forks work with the KZ. Wish I was that ambitious .
I think Tusch has a good idea tying into the corners of the brace, that would be very strong with a minimal weight penalty. Either way, it's an awesome build!

Ah, got ya. Alot does change over a few years- more ideas come up, someone figures out a better way to improve upon a new idea, and new products surface. Being a custom shop building this kind of stuff would be unreal. You wouldn't be working, you'd be playing all day.

I'll have to reconsider the rear mount, potentially grind the one pipe off now and fab up two to hit the corner brace. Thanks for the positive words!

Sometimes I think I should have mono-shocked mine, but I'm not sure. Keep it comin!

Will do! I have to get a little bit of aluminum welding done on my snowmachine this week, but hopefully next weekend we'll get the suspension finished, and move onto the offset sprocket

I know it's been a little while since I posted on here. Things are still moving along, just really slowly.

Tonight we got a little bit done. Did more head scratching on the suspension mount set up, and decided to scrap the old idea and go with something a little closer to DoubleZed's fab work.

So the idea here now is that instead of running the tubes vertically to triangulate into the upper frame rails, we're using 1" square tube to mount things up. The horizontal upper mount is still 1/4" flat bar, which will be welded to the front/rear 1" tube that crosses the frame. Ignore the mess of steel in the front here, This will be replaced with a single 1" tube as well.


A quick look from the top. The 1" tube hugs the frame, and will be welded fully around to seal it out. On top of the 1/4" flat stock, we're going to brace it up with another piece of tube.


When things are all said and done here, there is going to be about an inch and a half clearance from the reservoir to the flat bar. I figure it should be enough room to clear for the suspension movement.


Hopefully I'm able to get my welder back in the shop sooner than later. I still have 2.5 feet of snow here, but the warmer weather is slowly coming....