TOPIC:

Got to do a little painting. A lot of orange peel. Should I wet sand now, after some more coats or after the clear is on? One of the rattle can tutorials I read said to wait until clear coated.

Wayne

IMO, You should absolutely work EACH stage smooth before you proceed to the next stage!!!! You put a smooth base color coat on lumpy primer coat, you get a lumpy base coat...you put clearcoat over lumpy primer AND lumpy basecoat, well...it just gets worse...And at the end, when you want it to be slick and smooth, it will show all those lumps and bumps that you left. Use the black you have on as a "guide coat"...stop painting now, and wet sand! start with about 600 grit...lotsa water, turn paper often...the guide coat will tell you where hi/low spots are...Red primer shows through, it's a high spot...when you wet the whole part down, and it is shiny with water, it will give you pretty good idea as to how smooth it is..About anybody can physically use a rattle can , but the difference between a great job, and a so-so job is ALL PREP WORK! When you shoot, remember that lots of thin coats are MUCH better than a couple thick ones...if it drips/runs, you are too close to the substrate, or not moving fast enough...And don't breathe that stuff, it causes dain bramage!

Yeah, I breathe more of it than I should. The primer was wet sanded with 600 and was very smooth. The black went on in many light coats but is very pebbly looking, orange peel? It is relatively smooth.
Wayne

Well cool, man! you aren't in as much trouble as I thought! Wet sand your Black now...Work from about 600-800 up to 1000 between coats...It gets a little easier the more you do it, but the Orange peel always seems to show up in a rattle bomb project...(Even a car gun can bite ya sometimes! ) Is it Krylon, Rustoleum, or another name brand? Dollar general paint can cause trouble sometimes...Shake that puppy for a good 5 minutes after the marble breaks loose inside the can..upside down, and rightside up!! When you are at a stopping point, turn the can upside down and spray until it turns to just clear mist, no color..that'll help prevent shooting a bunch of spatters when you resume. just make sure every layer is where you want it to be before you "encapsulate" it in another layer...as long as the paint surface is smooth (and even in color), you can lose ALL the shine while wet sanding ...the goal is smooooth! ...put that clear/ next layer on, and POW! It's back...got some peel in the clear? sand again! It does take time, but amazing things can be accomplished with "rattle bombs" just don't get in a hurry! Very nice workspace, BTW!
edit: I should mention that there are such things as a "wet" coat and a "dry" coat...the trick is to get the feel for the paint you are using and try to stay in the middle...too wet, ya get drips...

Thanks Grumpy, I will keep at it. I am using a Rustelem lacquer . Plan to lay down some vinyl and clearcoat. All new ground for this guy.
Wayne

Minor setback

Hope you're ok. Looks like you didn't have the bike secured well enough or a strap broke?

Later, Doug

Close, I went to loosen a strap a little and it let loose. Prey bonehead move on my part.
Wayne

that really sucks.......fill for u

ah man that SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the most helpless feeling in the world watching it go and not being able to catch it.

thats a real

makes ya wanna

i had it happen to my 80 z1r.

what parts are you gonna need?

leon

That does suck......what I want to know is how you righted it from that position, couldn't have been too easy

Looks like just gauges and assembly. I have a set that came with a Mark II motor I picked up. May just go a different direction. Sure could have been worse. Imagine if the body work was on it?
Wayne

531blackbanshee wrote: ah man that SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the most helpless feeling in the world watching it go and not being able to catch it.

thats a real

makes ya wanna

i had it happen to my 80 z1r.

what parts are you gonna need?

leon