TOPIC:

Wow, very nice MTB! Bike looks great! What brand of camera and what specs? Picture quality looks fantastic!

Do you get any flack for parking close to the handicap, ?

Man your bike has to be the finest in existance.

An exceptional bike. I take it you spend polishing time on yours as well. I used to run a kerker but since I lowerd mine, will not work. I am a big fan of the Marving.

KZJOE900 wrote: Wow, very nice MTB! Bike looks great! What brand of camera and what specs? Picture quality looks fantastic!

Do you get any flack for parking close to the handicap, ?

I splurged a bit and got a Nikon D7000. I've been extremely happy with it so far, but it can be quite complicated at times though.

Nah, no flack for the handicap parking. I've lived in this gated community for over two years and have not seen a single handicapped person park in either of the two spots there. Of course, in the odd chance that someone would pull up while I was taking pictures, I'd certainly move.

I spent a few hours last night shining her up ahead of the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club's West Coast Rally.

Untitled by mmsmithgall , on Flickr

Untitled by mmsmithgall , on Flickr

Untitled by mmsmithgall , on Flickr

Untitled by mmsmithgall , on Flickr



Anyone heading up to Big Bear for the show and ride?

Your bike is VERY NICE! Have a great VJMC get together.

I like everything except I am stickler on the vinyl or painted tank and side covers lettering on the stock looking bikes.

But who am I say cause I am a guy with candy cane exhaust..

I started this thread regarding backfiring and misses and after talking and more thinking, I'm confident my my valve guides are shot.

This, of course, means the head will be sent off for work. Now, the question is, "how much work?" This is my daily driver. Usually 100% reliable, "jump on it and ride to Mexico and back for the weekend" reliable [true story!]. I trust it and don't want to lose any reliability whatsoever. I have an 1105 and a Z1 I'm building to have dirty, dirty fun with.

Anyhow, it's an internally stock 903cc motor. Kerker with street baffle, Dyna S, K&N airbox filter, just small things to get a bit more performance out of it. Here are a few scenarios I'm thinking of, please comment as I can't make up my mind, I've never done work like this before, and, arguably most importantly, will be keeping this bike the rest of my life and don't want to make any compromises and avoid weak spots. This engine won't be hot rodded any further than what I'm doing now [with the possibly exception of drop in street cams a few months from now].

Head:

• New valve guides, new cam chain, rollers, and tensioner.
• I am definitely considering new stainless steel valves and a 3-angle valve job.
• I'm even thinking about a light porting job - nothing crazy, not even "Stage 1," but just a nice, better-than-stock overhaul.

Cylinders:

• Do I hone my 903 and clean up my stock pistons
• Bore my 903 to 1015 with new Wiseco's [10.25:1 compression]
• Bore my 903 to 1045 with new 10.25:1 Wiseco's
• Or find a 1015 cylinder and bore it to 1075 with new 10.25:1 Wiseco's?
• This is and will be a street bike using mid-grade or premium pump gas

Cases/engine:

• Glass-beaded to clean them up nice!
• Do I need new APE studs?
• Weld the crank?
• Clutch work?
• Undercut the tranny?
• Manual tensioner? Jim @ Redline does not like them for street bikes, say's the chain is more often than not, torqued down too much

Carburetors:

• I have a set of 29mm smoothbores that I've been meaning to rebuild to bolt on
• I plan on keeping the airbox
• Ditching the 26s without a doubt!

Camshafts:

• Stock cams planned at this point for budget reasons
• If I do an overbore, I'd like to get a set of Web 118s or 931s a few months from now and rejet the carbs accordingly

Exhaust:

• Keeping my Kerker for now
• Possibly going to the 2.5" competition baffle if I bore it out
• I've been drooling over a Motogpwerks pipe for a long time, that might come down the road, after cams
• Or I might bolt on one of the old school Yoshimura pipes I've got

Looking at Larry Cavanaugh and Redline Cycles to do this work so I have to factor in shipping or driving to/from Chicago or Morgantown from Houston. This weekend, I'd like to draft up a little spreadsheet with the parts cost as well as transportation, just to get an idea of what I'm looking at and can start planning accordingly.

I am very much undecided - any suggestions? Thoughts? Comments?

Thanks and Happy New Year!
-Mark

I sent my last KZ900 head out to Florida to Joe Hooper. I then honed the cylinders and installed new rings also. Pretty much all you need if you are just want a daily driver. Nice looking bike.

Thanks sbc1320! There's only one person on here who has experience boring out a KZ engine??? C'mon guys, I need advice...

Anyone bore to a 1045? I'm thinking about that as well.

First thing I would do is find a 1015 block, and go 1075cc. There is no substitute for cubic inches!!!
Just match the ports to the valve seats, no fancy porting for the street.
Heavy duty valve springs. Your valve springs got to be worn out by now.
Any valve job would have at least 3 angles!!! Just find someone that knows what they are doing.
Bet all four of your exhaust valves are waxed too!! Along with all 8 valve guides.
Small cam around .385~.395 lift or so.
Weld crank with new H/D cam chain and all new cam chain rollers. Can't believe how much they cost now.
Have MRE undercut trans.
Needle bearing clutch pusher along with H/D clutch springs.
Use your 29mm smoothbores.


Thats about the bare minimum I would do to a KZ motor for the street. Back in the late 70's to early 80's, this was a common combination for the street. Our Service Manager drove his from Chicago to LA on a freshly built motor. He kept it under 100MPH till he got to the Illinois/Missouri border for break in!!!! Can still see him blasting down the interstate behind his Windjammer with a cigarette hanging out of his mouth!!! He even had one of those swinging cup holders too!!!

Opinions are like assholes, everybody has one. Well thats mine.

i am with dr.gamma on the mods.

with the exception of chasing cc's.

i would do the 1015 overbore to gain from the fresh bores,forged pistons and compression bump.

while NOT having to source a 1000 cylinder.

i am betting all mods being the same with bore being the only difference you can't tell (seat of the pants) a 1015 from a 1075 .

and by just going 1015 you can still have a rebuild left to go to 1045 in your stock cylinders.

i raced two strokes for years do all my own boring and honing and hate to bore a cylinder any more than is absolutely necessary.

exhaust,compression,carbs,cams and headwork will make way more difference than a few cc's.

thats my .02 fwiw,

leon