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i have one of his as well, really nice piece looks really nice black anodized thanks again ben.

timebomb33 wrote:

i have one of his as well, really nice piece looks really nice black anodized thanks again ben.

YOURS is black anodized! The rest of us mortals have natural finish

The Duc arm at the widest point is just a hair under 10", the frame was cut and widened. There was no way to narrow the arm as its hollow and to narrow it would open the side up and weaken the pivot area.
I worked with a guy that built chopper frames and after some debate, it was cut behind the bottom rear engine mount and behind the cross tube at the rear base of the tank. Unfortunately the guy went out of business before he finished the gusseting and welding, so I still need to do the gusseting and find a welder to stick it all together.

I replicated the stock 916 SA bushings with the kz pivot bolt and left some side-to-side play to make sure I had some adjustment to get the frame and wheels lined up. I will need one spacer to take up the slack. I will be adding a center pivot bolt support that will come up from the bottom cross tube.

What made you switch from your planned GS swingarm to the Duc SSSA?

porchev914 wrote:

What made you switch from your planned GS swing arm to the Duc SSSA?

A GS swing arm was never considered, not sure where that came from but I did toy with building my own but the 916 arm was just too interesting of a mod to pass up the challenge.

KzJim wrote:

porchev914 wrote:

What made you switch from your planned GS swing arm to the Duc SSSA?

A GS swing arm was never considered, not sure where that came from but I did toy with building my own but the 916 arm was just too interesting of a mod to pass up the challenge.

sorry buddy, got you confused with someone else from an old post. As you were.......

You may not need as much counter sprocket offset as I will since my frame is a little wider than yours. I figured it out by bolting the cases in the frame with the output shaft and the stock sprocket in place. Then I shot a line level vertically behind he bike, lined up with the rear sprocket. Then using a 6" dial caliper, I measured from the back side of the stock sprocket and noted where on the caliper the laser hit. Then I subtracted half of the stock sprocket thickness and viola! I had my offset. Now, the offset I needed did not coincide exactly with any off the shelf sprockets, but PMFR's 7/8" offset was within 1/16" of what I needed. The general consensus here is (was?) that 1/16" variation is whithin acceptable tolerences.

when you spread the frame, how did you control how much it spread on each side from centerline? One cute little problem I found after widening my frame was the frame bushings for the top rear motor mount were no longer parallel/level, necessitaing modification of the the frame mounts as well as a custom top motor mount. You might want to look into getting a welder or finding a friend with one You will probably be making more parts that you think. And once you have one, you'll start inventing parts to customize
Any progress?

After deciding on how much it needed to be moved the guy put the frame in his jig, and made a spacer on his lathe that bolted thru the SA pivot holes that was the measurement I needed then reset that in the jig and tacked it back in place.

So is this same Guy still available to help out on the rest of your build, or are you on your own from here on out? I ask because I don't know your capabilities to be able to complete the rest of the build/ Fab work.

Any progress or more pics to share?

No, he's long gone.. I can finish from here.. the welding I will have done.. I'm no welder.. I can fab the gussets and such and tack em in place. The other bits that neet to me made are no prob.. I have a mechanical engineering back ground and I know 2 good machinests.

The only progress I have made is I found the tail piece and the side stand.. ohh and got the rear tire mounted... i have been busy with my kz400 electronic ignition project.. it's done and a runner..