TOPIC:

Thanks Josh, as soon as I looked at the figure of 1/23" miss alignment, figured I'd probably be ok. The Triumph wheel is 5.5" wide with a 180 55/17

In my exhausted stuper, I have been messing around with my rearsets, which are '05 R6 units. I have been trying to find a way to utilize at least one of the stock mounting points. I began by modifying 2 of the 4 original footrest mounting pegs. The original is on the left, the modified one on the right. I shortened the 10mm side to eliminate the stud sticking out on the other side (clearance issues with the swingarm), turned the o.d. down to fit inside the rearset mounting hole and shorted the 8mm sud end.

So with one mounting stud in the original upper location and the rearset in approximately the stock R6 orientation, I'll have to fabricate the bottom rearset mount below the frame tube and behind the lower frame mount. You can visualize it in this pic

As a comparison, I held the stock peg up to show the difference of the rearset location. The rearset is raised up slightly over the stocker (less than 1/2") and is set back 8" from stock.

Here is my beautiful new outboard bearing support from KZR's very own Ben, AKA irishwill.

Unfortunately, due to my frame modifications, the swingarm pivot gussets are closer to the engine than a stock frame. As a result, the support plate does not fit right Soooooooo, I'll have to trim off the back end a bit to fit it in there. I feel bad having to butcher Bens art work, but such is life On a brighter note, irishwill has begun work on ammending the CNC code for the new triple clamps, as well as procuring the aluminum and dropping it off at the machine shop. irishwill has informed me that the 2 pieces of 2" wide X 5" thick X 12" long 6061 bar stock required cost $200

have you sat on the bike with both pegs in their position to feel what 8 inches back feels like?saw a real cool moto martin at a friends shop.he used a small plate adapted to factory holes and then mounted rear sets to that.also is there any issues with your pipe in that location?or I think you mentioned a custom exhaust.with your new plate for outer support the offset on your front sprocket is just about endless. limited only by the frame.looks like you have been working.loooooking goood

I wouldn't think .047" would be a problem. i thought i had mine lined up well. Then after riding it for 2 seasons i noticed the rear sprocket had ware on the outer face and not the inner, from the chain rubbing on it. not a groove just shinny. so it was obviously out a bit, unknown to me.
i am going to put a shim in when i put it back together, but i had no trouble.
will the 7/8" up front mean some clearance work on the frame, or have u widened it enough already?
I cut my stock foot peg mounting bolts in 2, and re-welded them together shorter as well.

camaroguy wrote:

have you sat on the bike with both pegs in their position to feel what 8 inches back feels like?saw a real cool moto martin at a friends shop.he used a small plate adapted to factory holes and then mounted rear sets to that.also is there any issues with your pipe in that location?or I think you mentioned a custom exhaust.with your new plate for outer support the offset on your front sprocket is just about endless. limited only by the frame.looks like you have been working.loooooking goood

You were up either really late or really early cameroguy! To answer your questions, I haven't sat on the bike with BOTH rearsets, but just the left one. It actually feels pretty good with the clip ons. That being said, I didn't even consider making an adapter bracket for the rearsets! Thanks for the idea cameroguy. The exhaust is down the road, but like you've read, will be custom. The outboard bearing support does give me clearence for the offset I need, but more importantly I'll have a bearing to support the end of my absurdly long offset countershaft sprocket.

Here is a pic of the rear sprocket alignment. Widening the frame to fit the swingarm means zero frame clearance issues Mark

I thought the same thing when I read your post.I did get up early for sunrise service but I think there is a time zone thing too.

Looking good bro.
I wish i had that much clearance. I'd be running a 200mm tire for sure.
I actual worked on my bike this week end. i stripped, sanded and primed my swing arm.i figured since i had the rim off for new ruber, i would repaint the swing arm. i'm thinking i will paint the arm silver to mimick the polished look. I love a polished arm, but i am too lasy to maintain one. Then i will spray bomb the frame black. this is just to give me a look at a possible , new color scheme for next year.
I also had my sons take all of the glass off the CBR .
Keep it twisted.

Jack wrote:

Hey I'm here to humbly apologize for misleading you on this. The reason I put my foot in my mouth was that I've always been told one of the identifiers ( admittedly pre internet )was the larger front ribs on the lower case front. Both sets of my 79 MKll cases have 13 ribs so I jumped to an incorrect opinion looking at your photo.Sorry.

Consulted my guru and he told me another way to identify MKll cases beside the serial#. The reinforcing main ribs inside the lower case from the front to the oil filter cavity is .600 thick for MKll, .545 for ST and Classic. Not sure on LTD, may or may not be MKll spec. 73-78 Z1/ KZ ribs are .300. ST and Classic cases have J Model Style tranny doors, MKll are Z1/KZ 900/1000 style.

Here's an anomoly from Mother Kaw. Bought a set of 80 Classic cases which have .545 thick main ribs but have 18 smaller ribs on the lower cases ( Z1/ KZ style )than the 13 on my MKll cases or the 78 version. Never seen that before and was wondering what I had until I measured.

I measured the reinforcing rib thickness between the oil filter housing and the front of the cases- Jack was right it is .600". Soooooo, I suppose that means I have MKII cases? But if I have MKII cases, why don't I have the rest of the MKII enigne parts? I have a STD KZ1000 15 tooth small crank pin. I don't know if anything else would be different, maybe the tranny? I would have swore that this engine had never been apart, but maybe I was wrong.

My work continues on the rearsets. Those following along know that I did not have the ambition to fabricate my own rearsets like others here (Josh, Mark), so I am adapting a set of '05 R6 rearsets. The last couple days I have been working on the right side. Thanks to cameroguys seemingly obvious (not to me!) suggestion that I make an adapter bracket, I did just that. So after some measuring, some templates, and some mock fitting, I have a rough bracket with modified food peg studs.

The reason that one stud is longer than the other is because the top OEM foot peg stud will also be the top rearset mount, while the bottom stud will only bolt to the bracket. The bottom of the rearset will bolt to the bracket, effectively tiangulating the assembly. Oh, and if you think it looks like crap, keep it to yourself, I don't wanna hear it

The hardware used here is old/temporary. For the stock peg studs, I want to get some stainless acorn nuts so they look relatively stock. The lower rearset bolt will be a stock part. The plate I used is 3/8", but I'm going to get some 1/2" and cut another one. Then I'll trim the bracket back and make it as minimalist as I dare.

I think it looks cool. thats probably exactly what ill do.Ive got a set of o7 gsxr rearsets.do you think youll need half inch thick plates?Ive seen a few bikes with these style brackets. some guys get a little carried away with the amont of material used.plate gets so big it starts to look like a number plate.yours look clean and simple.

Man that looks terrible!

Haha, just kidding, looks nice. I'm almost motivated to put my CBR rearsets on the 650 instead of being lazy and waiting till next winter.

porchev914 wrote:

My work continues on the rearsets. Those following along know that I did not have the ambition to fabricate my own rearsets like others here (Josh, Mark), so I am adapting a set of '05 R6 rearsets. The last couple days I have been working on the right side. Thanks to cameroguys seemingly obvious (not to me!) suggestion that I make an adapter bracket, I did just that. So after some measuring, some templates, and some mock fitting, I have a rough bracket with modified food peg studs.

Looks like you have been getting some more use out of that lathe again. See I told you that it's a very versatile and useful tool. How much does the nut on the swingarm pivot protrude from the frame on the other side? Are you going to have to space out to account for that or is it inset somehow? Or is that a non-issue due to the shape of the left side rearset? I would say that your adapter plates look like pork chops. Yummy!

Oh the questions!
cameroguy- I will need to step up to 1/2" plate for clearance. If you take a look at the pic, at the upper right side of the rearset is an aluminum bracket that sticks up. This mounts the front of the master cylinder. I already notched the swingarm bushing for clearance, but I need about .1" more plate thickness to keep it off the swingarm pivot. The bracket is so small that I don't think it will be noticable. I'll take a pic later to show you guys what I mean.
Josh- You are right, I am getting some more use out of the lathe. It has come in real handy making some of the custom parts I need! The swingarm nut doesn't protrude on either side, it is inset in the pivot bushings. I'll space the left side out the same to give me plenty of room for the shift linkage. Man, having that lathe sure makes my life easier
Thanks Tdub, I'm happy with the way it's turning out too

I had a similar clearance issue. when i put on the wider swing arm, i had to shim out my rear-set plate. i cheated. Not having a lathe like some spoiled kz riders i know. I had to improvise, and put a pair of large nuts (Like a real man would )behind the plate, around the mounting bolts.