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Hell yeah that bike is perfect! They won't even let the kickstand touch the ground.

Sorry that I have no progress tonight. I spent all afternoon cleaning my horrid garage. I was afraid that the "Horders" film crew would show up at my house.

I think that I need to actually put on my new sprockets and chain on to make sure that I got the offset right. I would hate to find out that I need to clearance the frame after I paint it.

I can't believe you're almost done! I'll be you have your engine back together and in the bike before I get my triple tree and wheel If you have any questions when you go to start working on the body and paint, don't ask anyone for help. Just read the damn directions for the material! Seriously, I can help you out a bit if you need some guidence. You helped me with my lathe work- I owe you some professional advice

Adam, you paint for a living? I'm sure that I will have some questions. Before I dismantle it, I may try out a couple of my paint ideas in rattle can form to get an idea of what she will look like. My skull with lazer eyes is just about done. It doesn't feel like I'm almost done. I have soo much stuff that needs to be refinished. Everything is scratched, dented or rusty in some form.

I used to. It was my first job out out of h.s., working in the local Ford dealerships body shop. Spent a couple years there and learned how to fix dents and paint cars. I'm not an expert, but I can help you through it. Just try not to get too frustrated with yourself when you make mistakes. You're gonna make some, and you'll probably have to do a few pieces over If you're looking for perfection. But that's the fun of learning, right?

Ok Adam, here goes my first question. If you were doing a paintjob like this:









Would you paint the white first, and then mask off what would be the stripes. Then paint the blue, or lay down the blue first.

As you can see, I tried out my first rattle can test paint job. I think this has potential. Even SWMBO said she likes it. I would like the blue to be a shade or two darker. I would love to see this done bc/cc with a nice shine.

BTW, once you get past the new paint, you will notice that I installed the new chain and sprockets. Also painted the center section of the rear wheel. Pleased to say that I got the right offset on that front sprocket. Everything looks straight.

Not positive, but when I was reading about painting I think I remember them saying to paint the lighter color first, then mask and paint the darker. But I'd love to hear someone else chime in...

You are correct in that the white gets laid down first, but its because you paint your accent or stripe color first. Mask off your striping pattern, then lay down the main color. I know of guys that have been really anal about the "ridge" that will be left on the base coat. They would mask the stripes off on the primer, paint the main color, then mask the main color and paint the stripe. That butts the paint together so there is no ridge, but it takes some careful masking to accomplish. The easiest way is to paint it like normal, then put down 4-5 good coats of clear. Before you do any spraying on something you want to keep, mix a samll amount of material up and spray a test panel to get a feel for the material and getting your gun set up. That way you can get a ball park trigger setting and see how fast to move the gun. When you are closer to actually spraying we'll get into more detail.

Thanks again Adam. This isn't the first time that I have ever painted. It will be the first time using my own equipment, and the first time that I have done a multi-color job. I've been helping my father in law with his 66 Mustang periodically. He likes me to paint for him, so he can blame the faults on me. It will be the first time that I have ever painted anything as complicated as a frame. Got any ideas for a rotisserie for the frame so that I can hit all the angles.

Painting a two tone isn't any harder than painting a single, it's just more coats of paint. The hardest part is masking off the stripes and keeping your lines straight and parallel. If you have access to a V8 engine stand, you can make a quick and dirty bracket to bolt the steering head to the stand. Twirl the frame around till your hearts content

You ain't kidding about masking off those stripes. I thought that it would be easy. Hell they're straight lines. When you start trying to keep the line straight on top of a compound curve, wowee! Good idea with the engine stand. I have one, but its about 250mi away in Kerrville. Maybe I can pick it up on the way back from vacation. That's only a couple of weeks away.

So I'm surprised that nobody has commented about my trial paint job. What do you guys think? Keep in mind that the swingarm will be black, and the engine cases will get painted black with polished edge fins and polished covers.

I love that paint scheme. u said u would like it a shade or 2 darker.
Well how about this.

Look at this link. there is some good info from a regular on this site, although he dosent hang hear anymore.
www.cyclemadness.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=2088&page=1

Hell YEAH!! Thats the color. I added that to the favorites. Basically a blow by blow of my paint job. Perfect. Thanks again bud. I guess that I can't use the grinder for that part.

You did a very good job on your trial paint job Josh. The stripes on the tail look straight, and your tank stripes are only off a tiny bit. Don't get too down on yourself, it takes some practice (like everything). You'll get it though, just take your time. It's easier for a novice DIYer to to do a good job once than it is for an apprentice professional to do a good job a couple times a day.
Mark, I'd say the guy that did that bodywork has done it before, It looks like great work

No, no grinder work here bro.
as soon as i saw your stripes i just knew Wards bike was the 1 for u. .
Aris69 sure does do some fine work.

Ok fellas, I got the bike all broke down today. I have another question for the paint guru's. I have loads of little stuff that will be painted semi-gloss black. Is it better to do a single stage or basecoat/clearcoat for little things that won't get bodywork.

Single stage for sure. I used to use a semi gloss epoxy based primer sealer called DP90 made by PPG on things like black bumpers and windshield wiper arms. Its good, durable paint. I'm sure you could find something similar in another brand if the PPG products aren't available

Thats perfect Adam. I don't relish the thought of painting primer, base and then mixing clear with a flattening agent for each little item. Also the nearest paint store to me is a PPG jobber.

Also do you have a recomendation on what paint line to use from PPG. I'm dumbfounded when it comes to paint selection. Too many choices. A coworker has painted with Shopline b/c it's the cheapest line that they sold. His paint looks good with some amount of orange peel that could be dealt with by a good cut and buff. I don't know how well this Shopline stuff lasts. What paint would you use from PPG? I will save for the good stuff if it is worth the expense. I have also read good things about SPI primers and clears. They claim to be universal, in that you can use them with any urethane base. I have yet to find a SPI jobber, but havn't looked too hard. Everyone on www.autobody101.com raves about their universal clear. Any experience here?

If you are going to buy from your PPG jobber, just go with the Deltron line of urethane paints. I don't think you need to spend the money on something like the Vibrance Collection. If you want to mix and match base and clear you certainly can, just as long as it's the same paint material (urethane, polyurethane, waterborne....ect). And if you want to mix and match to try and save some money, go cheaper on the base coat then splurge on the clear.

Orange peel is a function of your technique more than it is the material. That said, you don't want to lay the clear so heavy that it "self levels", cause you're guarenteed a run (or more!) The more expensive clear with have better base chemicals that will give you a more durable surface and a deeper wetter look to it as well as provide some marginaly better UV protection of the base color.

That's some quality advice there Adam. Thanks again. Now tell me why that Porche ain't shiny. Doctor heal thyself?