TOPIC:

porchev914 wrote:

How's the luggage mounts comming along? I'm also curious what headers you find that could be adapted to the KZ. Keep us posted! [/quote]

Well, my little trip the the wrecker yeilded some interesting results. First off, I had no luck even finding a KZ header, let alone anything else that would work. He had tons of unmarked, twisted, dented, rusty pipes. One that sure looked like a Kerker megaphone, but one of the primary tubes was too rotten on the end that connects to the head. It also had a dime sized hole in the bottom of the muffler.

I also found a CB900RR that had a gorgeous polished swingarm which I think would look killer on testarossa's 2.0. He wanted $350 for the swinger, shock, wheel and linkage. Too rich for my blood.

They had lots of donor GS, CB, and KZ parts bikes, but most of the good stuff was gone. I did score a set of dirt-bike style bars from a GS1100, and a neat little aluminium luggage rack. Not too many newer bikes mostly 70's, 80's and tons of dirtbikes and quads.



Not sure if I'll use these, but it does give me an option to the clip-ons.

See my luggage rack thread for update photos of that aspect of this project.

BTW Larry thanks for your input on my bearings. I respect your opinion and I may reconsider my bearings when I get to my engine.

Quick update. I finished phase one of my modular luggage rack system. The complete thread can be found here: kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=5&id=348190

Got my new Michelin Power Pilot 2CT's in today. I had really wanted to try some sport touring tires but these were such a good price that I couldn't pass the deal. I'll try to detail my el cheapo DIY tire mount and balance system in the near future.

I also got 90% of the crusty metallic teal paint off of that rear wheel and started polishing the rim. I couldn't stand the thought of mounting a new tire on that atrocity.

Here's a shot of the new back tire on the bike. I can give the tire mount and balance tutorial yet. Getting that old tire off became a fistfight. I had to put the camera down and show that tire who's boss.

testarossa wrote:

I had to put the camera down and show that tire who's boss.

Ha! I hear that!

I fought with my rear tire for probably three hours; two rim locks and a tube is a real PITA. Once I got it back together and found out that I pinched the tube I vowed never to touch another tire ever again!

Until the next day when I learned that the cheapest price to mount a tire was $25 per wheel...and only if you bought the tire from them and brought the wheels in off of the bike.

So I spent $50 on the right tools and got the rear tire on in about 25 minutes without any leaks!

The tire looks good. Are you going to leave the wheel like it is, I kind of like the polished rim against the rough natural aluminum.

Bring on the tutorial and keep going!

Thanks Jake. Its definantly a little easier when you don't have rim locks and a tube, but that back tire was really old and hard. If you have ever tried to remove a tire that has been on for about 10 years then you know what I mean. As for the wheel, I want the polished rim, but I may have to paint the spokes. What that picture doesn't show very well, is how much blue is left in the casting which I couldn't get out without sanding it all down smooth. I'm thinking a charcoal grey metallic or black. I've aways been a fan of Torque Thrust D wheels for cars, so I could sort of achieve that look.

I plan on building my own balance stand with some scrap steel, so I'll need to do that before I post the tutorial. I'll save the front tire for that one. Usually fronts are easier than the really wide, low profile sport bike rears. I'll also show the extra cheap barstool tire balance trick.

I'll also show the extra cheap barstool tire balance trick.

That sounds like something i could use in the Man cave. lol.

Yea Mark,
In your case you'll need one red and one green barstool. Did you get the compressor yet?

No , not yet.
Crank?

Not yet. Canada post says 10-12 buisness days in their FAQ.

Nice Josh! I'm clueless about your crank issues though. Thanks for the lathe tutorial, I need to read through it again a little more carefully then try it out.

I'm with jake on the tire changing- there isn't much worse than spending 2 hours wrestling a skinny tire on a skinny rim with 2 rim locks fixing a tube only to find out that you pinched the new tube during installation This is probably the only reason I'm doing my swingarm swap, to get away from those damn tubes! I wish I had a rear wheel and brand new sticky tire I'm jelous Josh!

I have a KZ900 crank en route from Canada thanks to Mark. New Michelins rule! So supple that I didn't even need tools to get either bead over the rim. Well except me, I'm a tool!

Hey, its the Tools of the world that get shit done, right?

Sometimes I wonder what I would do with all my free time if I didn't have a compulsion to fix everything.

I made a little progress today on the frame braces. I'm actually fairly close to completing all of the braces. Did have one setback today. I added a couple of braces that will need to be removed or modified.





I thought that these braces would do a good job of triangulating the downtubes to the neck. Even went to the trouble of making sure that I could remove the valve cover normally. However, I forgot about checking that I could remove the head. I'll have to shorten them or section and clearance them or remove them alltogether. Does anyone have any ideas? I even tried removing the bolts from all of the motor mounts, and rocking the motor back. No dice.





At least this worked. I've been meaning to box in the shock mount and reinforce it with some tubes. Mission accomplished.

I also installed the countershaft in the cases so that I could measure how much of an offset sprocket that I will need. Looks like I will need to run a 5/8" offset front sprocket. I could possibly turn the rear hub back 1/8" and use a 1/2" offset front sprocket. If I go with the 5/8" offset then I'll will have to clearance the frame and I guess the cover. However, if I turn the hub, then I'm left with only 1/8" clearance between the chain and tire, and maybe 1/8" clearance between the chain and frame. Is 1/8" enough clearance? Does anyone have advice? BTW I plan on running a new o-ring 530 chain.

when you took the valve cover off did you have the cams in it???
Ive made that mistake....

irishwill wrote:

when you took the valve cover off did you have the cams in it???
Ive made that mistake....

Yeah irishwill, I did have the cams in place, but I didn't take into account how far up I had to lift the head to get it out/in. Measured and cut braces with the motor in place. Checked that I could remove the vavle cover with the cams in. Then removed the motor to tack-in the braces so I didn't F something up with a hot BB. Then went to put the motor in. Cases went in fine. Jugs were cool. Tried to put the head back on...OOOPS!!! No biggie though. Those braces are only tack welded. Live and Learn.

It would mean quite a bit of extra fab work, but could you make one of those braces bolt on? That way you get most of the strength but with removable ingress/egress of the cylinder head. I'm thinking one side could remain welded..?

So I'll rethink the braces this weekend.

Now I need help with the chain clearance issue. Does anyone have experience running a chain with only 1/8" to the tire or the frame? My instincts tell me that this isn't enough. So I'm leaning toward running a 5/8" offset and clearancing the frame. Mark, how did you do it? I'm thinking of getting a rosebud for my torch. Heat up the affected area and bend it inward somehow? Or do I cut out the section and weld in a patch plate? Again, my insticts say not to cut into the frame tubes.

OMR, how is your 1/8" clearance to the frame doing? Does it ever hit? I'm thinking that the clearance at the frame can be smaller since the chain will be restrained by the front sprocket. It's just that the middle of the chain passes right by the tire and I guess that is where it would hit. It wouldn't be the end of the world if it scuffed the tire a bit, but I'd rather not.

Mark, what is your advice about running a 5/8" offset? Anybody else with actual experience here? Your ideas and opinions are all appreciated.

BTW, OMR you are absolutely right. New chain is the only way to go here. Heck the o-rings were falling out of my original 630 chain. Don't think that would last too long. My previous experience says to replace all chain and sprockets together. Any one worn component will prematurely wear the others.

I just received the spring compressor. U went over and beyond . It looks awesome. Thank you very much.

1/8"does sound tight , but it would likely work.
I cant give u exact #'s on mine right now, as i have the rear end off. but i will put it back on tomorrow and give u some accurate #'s.
as for clearancing the frame rails for the chain.
Both methods u have mentioned are used. I chose to heat the inside of the rail with a torch, and then squeeze it in flat with a C clamp. we just worked the C clamp, and torch, up and down the rail till we were happy. This was the easiest method for me since i done have the equipt to do this myself, i have to pay to have all of my work done. I am very pleased with the results.
I have seen others that cut a section out (like the diam of a 4 1/2" angle grinder disk?)and put in a round section of large diameter pipe. if this doesn't make scene , say so, and i will try to clarify.i'm shure the chain would still ride up on this though.
Others have put in a rectangular section. Not sure if u would loose any strength with this method?
I was surprised at how far the chain will actually ride up the frame rail, as the chain stretches. i need to squeeze mine in a little further up, as it is scraping the paint up high, still.
I thing to keep in mind is , if u use a chain with a master link clip. u don't want the clip to rub on anything that may dislodge it.

You confirmed my suspicions. Did you have to clearance the aluminum cover? I plan on starting with a master clip until decide on the final drive ratio. I want to hit a sweet spot at cruise speed, so I'll have to experiment. Is there any specific rpm where these motors get resonant vibes? I hate when you ride a bike that forces you to deal with a vibration at your preferred cruise speed.