TOPIC:

porchev914 wrote:

Were they oil pan bolts?

No, they were both bolts that go thru the upper case into the lower. Both were in the vicinity of the starter. Oddly enough, neither was very long. Usually, it's the longer bolts that want to twist off in a block. None of the real long bolts gave me any problems.

One more update with no new pictures. I have been working steadily trying to get myself ready to start painting. I got the engine cases, head, cylinders, and cam cover, all sandblasted and ready for paint. Also, I have been working on polishing all of the engine side covers. What a pain in the ass. You find one little scratch, and it sands out easily with 100 grit. Then you spend 2 hours working your way through the progressive papers just so you can buff it.

I have a tentative plan for a temporary paint booth that I can construct in my garage. I just want to get to the stage that I can paint all of the assorted bits that will be semi-gloss black.

Sounds good. For the booths I put up in my garage, I used visqueen, a staple gun, a cheap box fan and cheap HVAC filters. Set up a filter on each side of the "booth" and the fan taped to one of the filters pulling air out of the booth. Viola! cheap paint booth

Yeah, that's it exactly. I'm just trying to figure out how to rig some lighting in there so I can see what i'm doing. I have two of those twin bulb flourecent garage fixtures and a double halogen work light. Do you think that will be enough? I forgot to mention that I built a DIY air drier. My compressor is kicking out some serious water vapor these days. This humidity in Houston is a killer, and I don't want that water vapor to make it to my paint gun. I'll try to get a picture of that tomorrow.

If the dryer doesn't work, I can tell you how to make an inline condenser to help remove alot of the moisture so your filters are overwhelmed. I don't know how your lines are plumbed, but it also helps to have some elevation changes in the plumbing, and put drains in the low spots

my spray booth is about 12x12. i have 2, 4 ft double florescents a 1 incandescent in there and the lighting is very inadequate. my primary source has become a pair of halogen work lamps on an adjustable stand. the kind u can buy cheap.sounds like u have 1 too. i put the lights on a 45* angle to my work. they make all the dif in the world. the angle really helps. straight on lighting can make things worse.
As i mentioned before. if i wasn't to lazy to get my work lights out when i painted my side cover, i would have seen that run coming and backed off.
u will need to move the light around with u, as u circle your project with paint.
i have a simple workmate stand with a piece of plywood on top. then i cover that with a sheet of plastic (left over vapor barrier)then i have a cheap turntable screwed to the bottom of a 18x 18 piece of plywood. i put a piece of cardboard over that.
after a lot of painting u can simple throw out the plastic and cardboard, and renew them.
i have a roll of vapor barrier hanging on a rod on the wall near the ceiling. i can pull it down and practice painting on it for set up. the whole room has sheets of it stapled to the walls for over-spray. and i covered the floor with a left over roll of roof felt, and taped the seams. i don't do a lot of painting so i haven't had to change the coverings in 6 years now.
i also have a few copper plumbing pipes hung across the ceiling. i use stretched out coat hangers to hang parts to be painted,from these pipes.
i have a furnace fan mounted on 1 outside wall (at ceiling level) pushing air into the room through filters, and a big hole in the wall at floor level , on the opposite side of the room, with filters covering this exit hole. i wish i had of set it up to pull air rather than push. it too hard to seal up a room that pressurizes.
it is in my basement and works great for a hobby shop.

Thanks for the paintbooth tips fellas. I am pretty sure that I have a good plan. I spent this evening welding up things that were just tacked in, and sandblasting tons of stuff. I tell you what. Standing up against a blast cabinet in your garage when its 95F (or 35C for you Candians following along) and 70% humidity is not much fun. Anyway, I think that I may throw together the paint booth tomorrow and paint some engine cases.

So here is what I have concocted to allow my air coming from the compressor to expand and cool. This should allow the water vapor to condense out and get trapped before it gets to my paint gun. It is made of just over 50' of 3/4" schedule 40 pvc. I have two drops with petcock drains to allow for periodic water removal. I have it mounted to the ceiling in my garage, and it seems to be working well. I have noticed no water in the exhaust of my die grinder or from the airgun since it was installed. I will say that almost no water ever even makes it to the traps. This evening when I was draining my compressor tank, I decided to check all of the traps. No water in either of the pvc traps. The tank had about a cup of water, and the filter at the tank had a little water. However I noticed when I depressed the bleeder on the tank filter that quite a bit of water came down the first airhose and out through the tank filter. Here's the pics before I attached it to the ceiling.

id be really carefull pumping more than a few lbs of air into any kind of pvc pipe.when we check waste/vent piping for leaks we normally fill it full of water first then put maybe 5-10lbs of air in there at the most since the water will just drip out the joints if theres a leak,air on the other hand is like a pipe bomb

I just knew that I was going to get in trouble with you for posting that. The funny thing is that most of the machine shops that I have seen use pvc for their airlines. We actually just moved out of a shop that ran pvc airlines for 18 years with no problems.

Why is it that Schedule 40 is rated to 400 psi for water, but can't handle 90 psi air? I'm totally ignorant here.

i couldnt imagine 400psi of water running through anything,i think your city needs a pressure regulator! :laugh:ball valves for water service are generally rated for 400psi,but even with the heavy walled K copper we run for water service you normally dont see over 65-70psi without a regulator.id suggest L copper myself as a minimum to be safe anyway

lets see if this works torque1st.clubfte.com/OSHA_PVC_Pipe.htm

www.efcog.org/wg/ssr/events/Fall09Meetin...nforcement_EFCOG.pdf

Well the pipe says 400 psi at 70* right on it. I just decided to do some reading myself, and the danger lies in the potential for explosion. Water won't compress like air and so if it were to break with water, as you stated it would simply leak. With the air, it could send flying pvc shards all over the place since the pvc has a tendancy to shatter. My little manifold is installed behind a half wall on the ceiling, and if it were to explode, then the only way you could be hit was if standing below it. I bleed down the system at night, and I will only use it to run my HVLP on this one project. It will only be under about 40 lbs of pressure for this application. After the KZ gets done, I plan on re-organizing the garage, and I will run some proper airlines with multiple drops at that point. Don't try this at home.

The difference is in the expansive (read explosive) properties of a gas under rapid decompression vs. a liquid. Since liquids are generaly incompressable, the volume of fluid to equalize 400 psi to 0 is very little (the variable being the total compressed volume). The same line holding compressed gas has a failure, and boom!

You see what I did there? I started to write that last post, then got distracted for a half an hour. By the time I finished it, you had answered your own question. On a side note, the little wife was looking over my shoulder while I was reading a post and she noticed "Kawasaki" being abbreviated to "Kaw". She was of the opinion that I should change the abbreviated form to "Kawk", so that we cam all ride a round on our hotrod Kawks.

Sounds like your wife has a good sense of humor.

I am not an expert on plumming, and I just learned something here. To think that I trusted my boss to ensure my safety while I was putting in 60 hrs a week for him. I guess that there is a reason that he doesn't still work here. In retrospect, there are a few things that I do know about that would have had OSHA on his ass in that old shop. I know that I shouldn't bitch since I have a steady job, but these damn money grubbing companies.

Now back to work on your Kawks! I think I will rake mine, so it will be longer.

Well, that was certainly optomistic of me to think that I would get my paint booth assembled today. Once I got my head all wiped down and masked off I realized that I had to revise my plan. So I decided to continue with the masking. The head, cylinders, inside countershaft cover, and the points housing all got masked. After staring at the head for a while, I decided to go ahead and paint it with the duplicolor. I couldn't see me trying to paint all of those little nooks and crannies any other way. Now all that I have left to mask is the two case halves. Maybe I can get some painting done tomorrow.

Since when has the man who uses an oven to fight embitterment from re-chroming on spokes worried about safety?





Back when I played paintball we ran 750-1000+ psi through lines rates at 100 psi, it was commonly done and passed safety check at all tourney's. In 5 years of doing it I only had one line let lose on me.... right after a flash fill (bad for the gear but when you have back to back games, it becomes standard) the line popped right next to my ear; screwed up my balance for about an hour (felt like being drunk).


I just cut the blown part of the line out and played my game... I hear now they have made new stuff to deal with the pressures we ran, but the old stuff worked just fine.


BTW, those lines were only about 2-3mm wall thickness...


Generally pressure ratings are 1/4 of the products burst pressure (and rarely does something actually burst at it's burst pressure!).