TOPIC:

x2 on the tail light

Definitely lookin reeeeal slick with the corners tucked up under the tail. keep up the awesome work!

Bro, good call on the light....how did you know it was going to work out, or was it a gamble? I would do something similar if I wasn't planning to have a muffler right where your tail light is

porchev914 wrote:

Bro, good call on the light....how did you know it was going to work out, or was it a gamble? I would do something similar if I wasn't planning to have a muffler right where your tail light is

This thing with the taillight has been something that I have studied for a while. As soon as I decided to do the conversion, I knew that I wanted an integrated LED. I also knew that the only way to get that would be to adapt one from a modern sport bike. Now there are loads of em on ebay, but if you ask the sellers to measure them for you, then you get responses like "Its the stock size." Most of those guys don't even see their own inventory, and wouldn't open the box even if they did.

I knew that I could make the zx-10r light work since I have one to measure, but the side profile is a little off. So unbeknownst to many local riders, I have been scoping out there taillights for a while now. In the end it was a bit of serendipity that paid off. I don't seem to ever wind up riding with anybody on a R6. If you go back and look at the ebay ad that I posted the link for, you will see that he has a license plate directly below the light. My brain says "Hey that taillight is the same width as the plate." So I go and hold up a plate under my tailpiece and voila its the right width.

Now the upside down idea is a trick that I learned by watching Overhaulin one time. I remember Chip Foose taking a bumper and mounting it upside-down on the same car. Genious! I filed that one away in the ole mental database for future use. When customising, never limit yourself to viewing the part in only its correct use. Garage Confucious say "Sometimes the only proper thing to do is the incorrect thing."

With all that said, when I saw the sequential blinkers I was sold. Always wanted to do that with my old Mustang with those three bar taillights. Just like a '68 Cougar.

Here you go boys, from the Testarossa Skunk Works I give you a functional rearset. It still needs some bracing, and I know that I want to reshape the heel guard a little bit. I am pleased to report that the MC is mounted and operational, and the brake lever works beautifully. Now that I have the hard side done I can complete the shifter side. Here's to the hope that it doesn't interfere with the exhaust.



Mark, are you able to use your kick starter with your rearset position? I pretty much put my pegs where you have yours.

One of my buds at work has loaned me a sandblaster indefinetly, so you should see some better looking cases in the near future. I'm soo stoked for this week. Most of my engine parts should be here as well as the chain and sprockets.

Sorry bud. cant help u there. i dont have a kick start.

mark1122 wrote:

Sorry bud. cant help u there. i dont have a kick start.

I can't remember how far down it travels when you kick it. I guess I'll find out soon enough. What's the story on your CB900 starter anyway?

I have Tarozzi rearsets on my 1000. You can still use the kickstarter but you lose 1/2 of the original travel. If your bike is easy to start its not a big deal. But if it's harder to start then you'll probably need all the travel you can get.

Later, Doug

Thanks Doug. That was my suspicion. Not sure how much I'll use the kicker anyway. I had thought that I might make it a kick start only bike in the beginning, but Father-in-law has a Harley thats a kick only bike. Watching him start that bike on a cold morning changed my mind.

I have a starter from a 78 CB900f.There are a few dif bikes that have the same starter. they used 8 kilowatts, the kz is 6kw. the end result is the honda starter turns over noticeably faster. U have to clearance the sprocket cover for the starters power bolt, and the kz top cover sits a little proud.
I did this because i was worried about starting my 1327cc motor.
It works great.i also added a thicker wire to the starter like the honda has, and a stronger battery. She turns over much better, but i wouldnt say it is a necessity, just a luxury.
I feel more confident with it combined with big cc's.

rearsets turned out pretty nice.
it is so hard to take a couple bolt holes and go "okay i need a bracket from here to here and there and a pivot here(somewhere)and a mount for the master cylinder and a way to activate the master cylinder and a place for my foot and.........".
if you have never tried to "dream up" some custom stuff you don't understand what a mind fu!< it can be.i have built a couple sets of conrols (rear sets and forward controls)and can appreciate your work.
the honda starter starts my bike(1980 z1r stock) much faster and easier than the stock starter.i am happy every time i hit the button that i did the mod.

leon

X2 on the rearsets buddy. Once they're painted, no one could tell them apart from Tarozzi's Lets see....if I remember your list correctly, just a few more things until you are on the road!

Thanks guys. You havn't seen the last of the rearsets yet. I'm going to add some speedholes to the heel guards. Havn't decided on the design yet. There will also be some strategic lightening/reshaping of the levers, but the brake lever side is functional. I still have to assemble the shifter side and decide how to match the heel guards as well as possible. The mounting of the left side heel guard will need to be a little different. The right side is mounted with the bolts that hold in the MC and it is spaced out about 3/8". Not necessary or even possible with the shifter side.

Got my clutch hub rebuild kit in from APE yesterday. I'm really starting to think that the clutch is what took this bike off the road. Between the added plates, super thin friction plates, and broken hub spring, I'm guessing that the clutch was a little "difficult." Did the PO do some drag racing back in the day?....

I dont think its all that uncommon to find broken basket springs. Many years of power working against those springs will do it.
As for the pattern of holes for the heal guard.
Tha letters KZ as a pattern, comes to mind.

mark1122 wrote:

I dont think its all that uncommon to find broken basket springs. Many years of power working against those springs will do it.
As for the pattern of holes for the heal guard.
Tha letters KZ as a pattern, comes to mind.

That is def. one of the possibilities that I'm considering.

I think u can do better, u have the technology. how about adding a little engineering to your mod.

I bet it sucks when you get a pebble stuck in those trick, gear actuated brake and shift levers! Looks cool, but def. trailer queen material.

i just came across that pic and had to show u. some things just get waaaay over engineered.

Thats cool looking! It would take an entire spare tranny to build both sides though. Of course you'd want to back cut those gears....

As in my case... Most likely won't get a full rotation on the kick start but.... with an 18AH GEL battery, DYNA electronic ignition and all electrical up to spec, don't require kicking her over but I do still have it in place just in case for you never know....

Just a simple quick push of the starter and she roars to life...

I just LUV the fabbing on these old KZ's, looking good!

OMR

OMR, thanks for chiming in. Exactly which battery did you use? Looks like my battery will need to be sideways dependant on the size that I choose. I'm in the planning stages on my electrical and ignition at the moment. I drug out the old wiring harness the other day, and what a mess! I'm thinking of going with the DYNA as well. Not a real fan of points.

OBTW, new Renthal 530 chain on the way. How was your experience ordering your front sprocket from American Classix? I did see that you ordered from them didn't I?