TOPIC:

I have a stock exhaust set up in the garage that is in very good shape if you are looking to trade the chrome 4 into 1. I also have a mint side cover for the alternator that we could chat about.

If you are intereseted in a trade then send me a PM. I live in Calgary.

I am going the cafe way with my C1 Project.

Wheel Pic 1

Wheel Pic 2

Thank you Ed, I will be looking for that color gray in a rattle can.

I am looking for the rubber boot that goes on the rear brake actuator rod that fits around the base of the master cylinder.

Also, the ring around the headlight.

Also the handlebar bracket that holds the clutch handle and rear view mirror.

Here are before and during pics of the ignition cover mounting bolt holes.

JB Weld

Repro headlight assembly

Z1E Headlight Assembly

Repro headligh rim kit (look about 2/3 the way down the page)

American Classix Rim Kit

I am letting the JB Weld harden, but it looks like the fix is sound and will shape up well. The threads are true as well.

I will need to get a gasket kit to replace the generator housing and valve cover gaskets. Is there a good source to buy them individually, or is it better to get the whole set all?

I decided to go with the gray color for the rims paint as per Ed's suggestion. I have the front wheel cleaned up and have chosen a paint can.

I have all of the flat and reasonably easy to get to areas on the engine wire wheeled free of that paint, next step is to prep it for stripper and garden hose to get the paint out of the crannies. Then I may start to polish it.

The rear swing-arm is painted and ready. So is the rear brake brace.

I finally got the rear brake slave cylinder apart and the destroyed the rubber parts by cleaning them with gasoline, I know I am a loser and suck at everything, lol. I will need to get a rebuild kit before I can continue on that. I might as well go for the master cylinder as well. Does the dust cover come with a rebuild kit?

I cut the handlebar in three pieces to extricate the wire bundle. I took the guts out of the housing so that I may cut out the notch needed for the new wire bundle exit.

So far, the paint removal has been the most work.

What should I soak the chain in? It is an O-ring chain and is still nice and rigid (side to side of course).

All three brake calipers were gummed up solid, I had to pump them all out with my front master cylinder connected directly. They are all cleaned up and working well. The cylinders are not perfect, but all the pistons look great.

The Master cylinders were in awful shape as well. Very dirty. There was that accumulated brown crud that looked like sawdust, I got about a teaspoon of it out.

For both the cylinders and masters I decided to go unpainted aluminum for the finish.

They are all on the bike again, I just have to hook up the lines and bleed and test them out.

The wheels have both been cleaned, repainted and re-greased. I went with a "hammered finish" gray for the colored part of the wheel (thank you Ed for the suggestion, they look great!) which is stock for color on the 77 specifically.

I discovered that the rear wheel is 16 inch. I have not measured it, but it is shorter than the front wheel and it looks smaller than the wheel on my other 77.

The forks, rear swing-arm, and triple tree have been cleaned re-greased and replaced.

I will need to do something about the chrome lamp housing hangers that are on the forks. They are pitted and really stand out now against the other clean parts. I am trying to keep the cost down if I can or I would buy new. A friend has a sailboat (salt water corrosion knowledge) and knows of a product that may be applied to pitted chrome that fills in the holes and smoothes out the surface treated. It does however change the appearance to more of a aluminum finish. Does anyone know of or have experience with this? If this is not feasible, I will end up sanding and painting the hangers black.

Soaked the chain and experimented with the buffing wheel to shine up one side.

Put the handle bars on.

The aluminum color spray can paint has been eradicated from all non engine parts, Yay! The fight with the paint on the engine goes on, Boo!

The JBweld job came out 95% perfect. It is flat and planar and holds the bolts soundly, I am planning to buf the aluminum on the engine, so there will be a little patch where the repair will show. Oh well, life has been worse.

The soda blaster works well, but very slowly. I have given up on soda blasting the engine. I will now try a 1.5 inch nylon abrasive bristle rotating drill mounted wheel to try to get the paint from the fins on the engine.

Wish me luck!

I routed the wires through the clubman cafe bars. I was a total bitch, but I got 'er done.

I created a new tool!! Getting paint off of a still built motor,... really not a good time. Those cooling fins, and the recessed areas, nooks & crannies. At last count, I have 8 different wire wheels for my drill, files, scratch awls flathead screwdrivers, sandpaper, etc...

The best tool ended up being steel wool and an 1/8 inch drill bit. I pulled about 1/8th of the coarse steel wool pad off and layed it perpendicularly across the heads cooling fins. Then I layed the side of the drill bit across the steel wool and nudged it between two fins. Started rolling the bit and the wool wrapped around the bit. I added more until it was as thick as the gap in the fins. You can guide the wool where you need it on the bit, tip or shaft. (protective gloves a must!)

Then I went to town!! You need to reload the bit now and then. The wool would fly off all over the place, magnetized, and stick to every tool it could. An awful mess. But I got the paint removal done in an evening, when I thought it would be days.

Also, the tip of the bit was good to rough up the floors of the crevasses, all the better.

I took the triple tree apart because I decided to go all unpainted. So I undid what I had done. Lame.

The engine is now top and bottomless. I am going to polish every part I can.

Ordered carb kits, engine gaskets, chrome front lamp assembly, misc rubber parts.

Going well.