TOPIC:

thanks for the link. Kinda pricey but, if it comes down to it i'll have to order that kit. If i cant find any place local that can help then i'm going to try to just cut the bottom out of sheet metal and epoxy it together. Not sure if i can find an epoxy that'll hold when in contact with gas.

Hey man, just fiberglass it!, its easy! use a little more resin on the outside of the tank. and sand it smooth. I would slosh a little tank sealer around where you glassed it on the inside so it doesnt get any shards in your carbs,

Thats what i would do.

cheap
easy
and strong!

Well i'm now wiring the bike and have a few questions. Just to make sure i have everything correct before i put power to it i would like a for a few others to check to make sure i have the correct wires going to ground and power.


^Dont ask me why but, i uploaded a pic of my wiring dia. but, this bike is what comes up. Click on it to enlarge it and my wiring dia. will show up

Ignitor :
D/G - coil ground
B - coil ground
R/Y - 12v source
Y/B - Ground

Rectifier :
R/W - 12v source ( back to the B+ termial since i think this is the charging wire)
B - Ground
Br - 12v source

Correct or not?

I'm also running vulcan coils and am trying to figure out which terminal on the coil gets power and which gets ground. One terminal is green and the other is black....anyone know?

Getting closer and closer to seeing if the engine runs:huh:

nelson8708 wrote:

...trying to figure out which terminal on the coil gets power and which gets ground. One terminal is green and the other is black....anyone know?....

Usually doesn't matter, because the coils don't have polarity. On each coil, attach bat+ to one of the ignition coil primary winding terminals, and attach signal wire from ignition to that same coil's other primary winding terminal.

As far as engine "running," a good fully charged battery should allow running with only the coils attached and powered. Unnecessary to have any of the charging system connected such as alternator, rectifier, regulator, or associated wiring. This is called a "total loss" ignition system, whereby the engine may perform normally until the battery runs down. Racers sometimes use it to reduce weight and gain left turn cornering clearance (by eliminating the alternator and alternator cover).

Besides the ignition wiring and charging system wiring, how much chassis wiring is intended for lights and such?

Good Luck!

Patton wrote:

Usually doesn't matter, because the coils don't have polarity. On each coil, attach bat+ to one of the ignition coil primary winding terminals, and attach signal wire from ignition to that same coil's other primary winding terminal.

Besides the ignition wiring and charging system wiring, how much chassis wiring is intended for lights and such?

Good Luck!

I know on car coils such as an aftermarket msd coil if you switch the two primary wires it will blow the coil (a buddy had this happen). I really dont want to take a chance unless i cant figure out for sure which terminal gets B+ and which gets ground.

I want to have the entire bike wired before i start it. For now i'm not going to put any lights on it but, when i do it wont be much wiring. Just a couple more circuits. Once for the turn signals and the other for head light, tail light, and license plate light. Not that bad at all.

Since all the alternator wires are yellow i take it that it does not matter which yellow wire it goes to on the rectifier box?

Thanks,
-Nelson

I was just wondering. Are you highly proficient at riding a unicycle? If not, I would get so before you try to ride this thing. This monster will be on the back wheel more so than not.

You know-- I just remember, back in the late 70s when Springfield put a XS1100 engine in a flat track bike. The bike was outlawed after the first race because the Harleys had no chance against it. For his victory lap he did two instead; On the back wheel.

This picture might help.

3.bp.blogspot.com/_VDCGGBYmNCk/SXdxbOLhQ...00/kawiscrambler.jpg


...Russ

Russ Jackson wrote:

This picture might help.

3.bp.blogspot.com/_VDCGGBYmNCk/SXdxbOLhQ...00/kawiscrambler.jpg


...Russ

Here's another interesting KZ dirt bike.

But don't have further info or pics.

Note lack of alternator or alternator engine case.

Click on image to enhance view]



Good Luck!

^ that thing is sick

otakar wrote:

I was just wondering. Are you highly proficient at riding a unicycle? If not, I would get so before you try to ride this thing. This monster will be on the back wheel more so than not.

I dont think it will be all that bad since the engine is heavy enough to keep the front wheel down. I guess i'll find out the first time i ride her....that will be an exciting day

Here are a couple updated pics. I have finished the battery box / cage, mounted the rectifier and ignitor where they will have plenty of air flow, mounted the coils, and the rectifier is now wired along with my starter circuit. Once the ignitor is wired i will be able to attempt to start her. Over this next week i want to make my new rear brake pedal and extend the stock kz kick stand.




^tight fit



^threw some plastics on it (still need to get the tank welded)

oh boy didnt need too see this project, only because i have a 88 yz250 that is broken and a good kz650 motor laying around, god this would be crazy to ride, good job on your kyz550