Hi from NorCal

Charging system doesn't charge the battery. I get 12.5volts with the bike idling at 1k rpm.
Resistance between the yellow wires on the stator when set to 200 Ohms reads .7, which seems to be out of spec, the book says .26-.38. Does that mean I need a new stator? They are pricey, and sorta hard to find a new one for the kz400 ltd h1.
I get a reading from the regulator/rectifier, between the yellow and black leads one way, but no reading the other way, Does that mean I need a new regulator/rectifier? The book says I should get a slightly different reading one way or the other, but at least a reading both ways.
Good news is I got tires on the bike, found a shop that will recover the seat, new bright green chain. Other parts on the way, braided stainless lower brake line also green. Rear shocks should be here tomorrow...

I have to modify the chain guard little to get the shocks to fit.

That chain is obnoxious! I love it! Do they come in Blue?

Yes! They come in blue. Just search o-ring chain on ebay, and make sure you get the right pitch and number of links.
Slightly cheaper than the chain sold and recommended by some other online suppliers, but what the heck, it's freaking bright green....

You are too far into this to back out now! Shocks will make a big difference. I don't recall if you are rebuilding the forks but a good idea if not yet done. Now, hoping you get the charging system sorted. Great progress and should be ready to roll by spring!

I appreciate all the advice, as it is helping me sort through a lot of stuff.
I did rebuild the forks, all they needed were seals and some oil.
I added some more bright green brake line, so it is bright green all the way from the reservoir to the caliper. Got the brakes back on the bike. I was going to fill it up with fluid, but I gave up searching for some clear vinyl hose as it was getting late last night. Grabbed some taps, so I can chase threads on the suspension, then this KZ should be back on the ground, and I can test the chargin system with a new rectifier, and just threw a new gasket on the stator housing.

I had polished up the ignition advance cam, cause it was rusty, and broke the advance/retard arms loose. the point gap is maintaining better. The bike was running good for a solid 15 minutes maybe, and got out of the work shop right about when it quit again. Then I go to start it back up, not enough juice. Put the battery back on the charger, and it jumps back up to 4 ampers. Got a new rectifier/regulator on there too. Although this battery is only 6 months old and should be fine. I can confirm the voltage while running, but last I check it was just shy of 14 volts, maybe 13.5, so I would think that it would be charging. . .

14 volts is optimum fully charged for a bike battery. 13.5 volts is very normal on start up. Looks like it is holding its charge. Good luck with the further trouble shooting. If you have not put a new set of points & condenser in then you should. I had the original 1977 points & condenser in my KZ when I bought it in 2009. It ran but when I inspected, the contact points were brittle. I replace with a Dyna solid state ignition. You could simply try new points & condenser if not done so as yet.

I had done something goofy with the fuel lines, :ohmy: so rerouted them, new filter, and the bike is running good now, but with the choke closed. A friend of mine actually made a point about how well this bike is built, and I am taking that seriously now that I have seen inside the carbs, and had to replace nothing inside them yet.

As I open the choke, the throttle goes for the moon, or continually increases, so I am thinking that it is rich, because with the added air, it just takes off. I will try and set the float bowl level again, maybe its too high. I have no idea where the Idle Adjustment (Idle Screw) is at, seems like I can just turn and turn :blush: If I desire to balance the carbs, then do I remove the screw that next to the black Idle circuit screw, for vacuum?
I almost got it figured out. Just a little more tuning.
Thanks.
Randy

It's possible that I am misunderstanding your statement: "the bike is running good now, but with the choke closed"

When you engage the choke you are enriching the air/fuel mixture and the engine will rev higher - that is normal. This is usually required when starting a cold engine. When you turn off the choke, especially with the engine warmed up, the engine should run at normal rpm. If that is what you are experiencing your engine is working just as it should. Ed

Ed,
You are correct sir! I was having a dyslexic moment. The bike is running very well, and I feel a lot better getting into this now that I understand how it all works much better than when I started.
Still needs little things here and there, but I believe everything major has been sorted out. :woohoo:
I will see what I can do about some glamor shots and videos.
Thanks.