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Author: Subject: Wynn's engine oil stop leaks?????
Cactus
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[*] posted on 10-9-2005 at 10:45
Wynn's engine oil stop leaks?????



Hello z people. I'm still trying to plug my gasket leak without changing the gasket (I guess i really am dumb), anyone used this Wynn's magic in a can stuff? Does it work? Does it wreck your motor? I guess it's worth a try, it's 10 euros a bottle over here.

Many thanks for your feed back. I put some liquid gasket where the leak was and it held up for an hour and then it started to spray my right boot again. I'm pretty sure it's the rubber 'o' rings that cover the oil passages on the left and right end of the cylinder head.

The Wynn's stuff says it 'renews' the 'o' rings etc and stops the leaks, sounds too good to be true, but when you're lazy and desperate you'll believe anything right.....:D

http://www.wynns.net/products/retail.php



[Edited on 10-9-2005 by Cactus]




z650 B1 1977 - original paint and stripes in fading candy red, rusting black frame, standard airbox, Newtronic ignition, Kzriders' coil wiring relay modification, higtech brake lines that don't make any difference, ZR7 oil cooler that does make a difference, oil temp guage, starter motor that has its moods, plastic digital watch from the petrol station, + dyna coils and 8mm leads, fly screen, Raask rearsets, Marshall 4-1 (a bit too loud!), 750 cams, fuel filter, top case and a very comfy seat...
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Walt
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[*] posted on 10-9-2005 at 11:57


I have never tried wynns It may work but ten euros= about twelve bucks US that is very costly. :o



Walt
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Cactus
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[*] posted on 10-9-2005 at 12:33


I agree but way cheaper than a gasket set and all the time needed for a top end strip. I don't believe that there really is such a thing as a quick fix.

My gasket leak isn't that bad it's just that it comes out on the side of the cylinder and the wind whips it right up all over my boot and the bottom of my jeans - it was probably standard fair for a BSA or one of those Brit twins but this is not what I expect from my jap bike, even if it is nearly 30 years old.




z650 B1 1977 - original paint and stripes in fading candy red, rusting black frame, standard airbox, Newtronic ignition, Kzriders' coil wiring relay modification, higtech brake lines that don't make any difference, ZR7 oil cooler that does make a difference, oil temp guage, starter motor that has its moods, plastic digital watch from the petrol station, + dyna coils and 8mm leads, fly screen, Raask rearsets, Marshall 4-1 (a bit too loud!), 750 cams, fuel filter, top case and a very comfy seat...
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ZimianGPz11
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[*] posted on 10-9-2005 at 14:41


Ive tried that stuff and although it might work 4 cars it didnt work 4 my bike,i have the same problem with my head gasket 4 about 9 months i dont have the time or the money 2 fix it ,and it is my daily transport ,ive just gotten used 2 it untill i have a bit of money and the time 2 do it.



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luvmykaw
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[*] posted on 10-9-2005 at 15:00


Did you have this leak when you were using dino oil Cactus, or after you went 100% synthetic?



(1977) Silver KZ 650 B1, MAC 4 into 1, custom seat and a pile of new parts.

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Cactus
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[*] posted on 10-9-2005 at 21:21


Luv, the leak was their before the fully synth but seems to have gotten worse, it's probably due to the fact that the oil is 5W-40 and not 10W-40, so it could run thinner.

I heard that the Wynn's probably contains w50 oil and so thickens up the oil, but I don't know for sure. I'll probably give it a shot, it seems to me it's worth a try as with GPZ I'm not ready for a full strip down yet.

I'm even wondering if some heat resistant resin based glue might do the trick as it really is just a small gasket leak...




z650 B1 1977 - original paint and stripes in fading candy red, rusting black frame, standard airbox, Newtronic ignition, Kzriders' coil wiring relay modification, higtech brake lines that don't make any difference, ZR7 oil cooler that does make a difference, oil temp guage, starter motor that has its moods, plastic digital watch from the petrol station, + dyna coils and 8mm leads, fly screen, Raask rearsets, Marshall 4-1 (a bit too loud!), 750 cams, fuel filter, top case and a very comfy seat...
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Wicked_KZ
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[*] posted on 11-9-2005 at 02:18
How bad is the leak?



There are a few things you can do to stop a *small* leak but the magic snake oil in a bottle stuff is usually just another way to separate you from your money...

If it's a case or valve cover gasket leaking the solution is pretty easy...
Get the leaking area spotless clean and free of oil (brake cleaner or carb and choke spray work great here)then use some Permatex Ultra Black or ULtra Grey (depending on the color of your engine) and stuff it into the leaky area as much as possible. it does need to sit overnight but it will "quick fix" it.. not a permanent fix but it'll buy you a little extra time.
You can also use this stuff in place of a gasket if both surfaces are flat.
This stuff is easily concealed so it won't make your motor look like crap after you use it and it's not your ordinary RTV, it seals WAY better.

Yamabond also works great but it's a mother cleaning the stuff off later on when you do the real fix.

now if you have a leak where there is pressurized oil passing thru, the only fix is to tear down and replace the o-ring or gasket.




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Cactus
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[*] posted on 11-9-2005 at 05:25


Wicked, I can see you've also been here. That's exactly what I've done, but with stuff we call autojoint bleu (because it's blue) over here (ie France). It's the top head gasket and like I say the autojoint held up a good hour on a long trip, but on the return it started dribbling again.

I stuffed more in there, each time using brake cleaner to get all the oil off the surface. I should be able to keep going like this for a while, but I can't rev it up to 11 000 any more it leaks out even worse.

Still this is all good argument for buying an ER-6f, the downside is I really need to fix the bike to get a good sale, and if I do fix it, my argument for buying a new one goes out the window:D I put a for sale sign on it and if someone offers me loads of money they can have the best z650 in the south west of France, leak or no leak...

Actually I could probably do a strip in under 2 hours if I organise myself, I'm a very slow, methodical type, most of the time, I'll just have to motivate myself to that point. Otherwise I really do have a sweet motor.

Still like I say it's fueling my project to go for an ER-6f and no more oily hands for the next 10 years...




z650 B1 1977 - original paint and stripes in fading candy red, rusting black frame, standard airbox, Newtronic ignition, Kzriders' coil wiring relay modification, higtech brake lines that don't make any difference, ZR7 oil cooler that does make a difference, oil temp guage, starter motor that has its moods, plastic digital watch from the petrol station, + dyna coils and 8mm leads, fly screen, Raask rearsets, Marshall 4-1 (a bit too loud!), 750 cams, fuel filter, top case and a very comfy seat...
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[*] posted on 11-9-2005 at 07:51


In the(bad) old days,brake fluid was used a stop leak in auto trannies,and power steering pumps.It does the same thing,swelling up seals,O rings,etc,but it was a last resort,used on tired iron.



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Walt
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[*] posted on 11-9-2005 at 08:09


Hey Doc, how much brake fliud should be added to a motor that only holds three and a half to four quarts of oil?



Walt
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Cactus
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[*] posted on 11-9-2005 at 08:57


Ooo, sounds funky, I guess if it works in an emergency, like get me back home, but I'd rather go for the Wynn's than the brake fluid:D Still, thanks for the info - nostalgia huh.



z650 B1 1977 - original paint and stripes in fading candy red, rusting black frame, standard airbox, Newtronic ignition, Kzriders' coil wiring relay modification, higtech brake lines that don't make any difference, ZR7 oil cooler that does make a difference, oil temp guage, starter motor that has its moods, plastic digital watch from the petrol station, + dyna coils and 8mm leads, fly screen, Raask rearsets, Marshall 4-1 (a bit too loud!), 750 cams, fuel filter, top case and a very comfy seat...
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[*] posted on 12-9-2005 at 00:30


I would worry as to what that stuff would do to the wet clutch.

I'd go to my local hardware store and get a meter or so of 50mm rubber tube. Then drill a few holes in it and run some copper wire through the holes - wrap this around the cylinder so that one end of the tube catches the oil - run the other end to the chain - presto - automatic chain oiler :D

For a really cool look use braided stainless tube.

Allan




CSR750M1 Twin - purchased it new in 1982, I think I'll keep it for a while ....
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[*] posted on 14-9-2005 at 03:41


Autojoint on the outside (yamabond etc.) + the mysterious elixir (that looks suspiciously like brake fluid) was poured surreptitiously into the tunneled recesses of the mechanical labyrinth and it's holding up for now.:)


[Edited on 14-9-2005 by Cactus]




z650 B1 1977 - original paint and stripes in fading candy red, rusting black frame, standard airbox, Newtronic ignition, Kzriders' coil wiring relay modification, higtech brake lines that don't make any difference, ZR7 oil cooler that does make a difference, oil temp guage, starter motor that has its moods, plastic digital watch from the petrol station, + dyna coils and 8mm leads, fly screen, Raask rearsets, Marshall 4-1 (a bit too loud!), 750 cams, fuel filter, top case and a very comfy seat...
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[*] posted on 1-10-2005 at 08:59


Update. My leak has completely cleared up for now and I'm running the bike as usual, but am not pushing it past 9500rpm for the time being, so I'm happy with the product and the results so far - so maybe being lazy is ok after all:D



z650 B1 1977 - original paint and stripes in fading candy red, rusting black frame, standard airbox, Newtronic ignition, Kzriders' coil wiring relay modification, higtech brake lines that don't make any difference, ZR7 oil cooler that does make a difference, oil temp guage, starter motor that has its moods, plastic digital watch from the petrol station, + dyna coils and 8mm leads, fly screen, Raask rearsets, Marshall 4-1 (a bit too loud!), 750 cams, fuel filter, top case and a very comfy seat...
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[*] posted on 1-10-2005 at 09:03


i thought this stuff clogged your motor up. i would be interested in a reply to this also.



1977 kz1000 with vm28's
1976 kz900 with 1075 wiseco kit, cams and vm29's.
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[*] posted on 1-10-2005 at 09:04


sorry folks, my avi was too big. i erased it.



1977 kz1000 with vm28's
1976 kz900 with 1075 wiseco kit, cams and vm29's.
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[*] posted on 2-10-2005 at 09:31


I just read in one of my japanese kawasaki bike mags that this motor, which was also in the zephyr and then the zr7 is known for it's leaky head and they recommend always using a brand new rocker box gasket and high quality gasket seal, which is always a good idea anyway.

Up till now i don't like gasket goo too much and most of the time I use a smear of grease to hold the gaskets in place but will use gasket goo from now on.




z650 B1 1977 - original paint and stripes in fading candy red, rusting black frame, standard airbox, Newtronic ignition, Kzriders' coil wiring relay modification, higtech brake lines that don't make any difference, ZR7 oil cooler that does make a difference, oil temp guage, starter motor that has its moods, plastic digital watch from the petrol station, + dyna coils and 8mm leads, fly screen, Raask rearsets, Marshall 4-1 (a bit too loud!), 750 cams, fuel filter, top case and a very comfy seat...
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[*] posted on 3-10-2005 at 18:05


[quote][i]Originally posted by AllanB[/i]
I'd go to my local hardware store and get a meter or so of 50mm rubber tube. Then drill a few holes in it and run some copper wire through the holes - wrap this around the cylinder so that one end of the tube catches the oil - run the other end to the chain - presto - automatic chain oiler :D
[/quote]
I assume you were joking about this, but I bought about 3 feet of tubing from the hardware store today to try to contain my oil leak for a month or so.

I just bought a used '83 550LTD and it has a fairly nasty leak which soaks my left foot in oil on the expressway. The problem is I'm in an apartment at the moment and will close on my house (with a garage) at the end of the month so I just want a way to ride the bike for the rest of the fall without the extra "waterproofing" on my left boot. I'll try to fix it correctly when I have a garage to work in.


So yeah... as ridiculous as it sounds, I'm gonna try your suggestion this week. :o
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[*] posted on 4-10-2005 at 00:01


Ah - tounge was firmly in cheek ;)

But WTF its a good theory.

Allan




CSR750M1 Twin - purchased it new in 1982, I think I'll keep it for a while ....
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[*] posted on 4-10-2005 at 05:14


I'll let ya know how it works (if it works). I don't think I'm going to do the chain oiler, I just want to route the oil to anyplace but my shoe.
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[*] posted on 8-10-2005 at 13:21


My leak seems to be coming from here:
[img]http://homepage.mac.com/kevin.becker/motorcycle/leak.jpg[/img]
My first attempt with the hose trick didn't work so well but I think it would if I get another section of tube and cut the holes better.

I also tightened down the cylinder head nuts a bit, which seemed to help a lot more than the crazy hose rig. I'm not sure if I should tighten them more or not though. They are already tighter than the 17ft-lbs recommended in my Clymer manual. For a permanent fix, it seems like I will have to take a lot off to replace the gasket. I hope I don't end up with a "parts bike" to sell on eBay after I'm done with it. :(

[Edited on 10/8/2005 by kevco]
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